Book Review: Learn to speak fenugreek

New York Daily News
June 2 2004

Armenian cuisine – which combines the flavors of the Mediterranean with
Persian and Russian cooking – is the subject of an intriguing new book
by Victoria Jenanyan Wise, “The Armenian Table” (St. Martin’s Press,
$29.95). The signature ingredients for this style of cooking are herbs
such as fenu­greek and tarragon, and such seasonings as orange flower
water. To get to know them, the author takes us on a comprehensive
tour of the typical Armenian pantry. First, though, there’s an
interesting chapter on the homelands of the Armenian people, maps and
all, followed by shopping hints and descriptions of frequently used
foods. Wise discusses the assorted extracts, spices, herbs and fresh
produce she uses in her kitchen to turn out such dishes as mussels
in tomato-onion broth, spicy meatballs in tomato-cilantro sauce and
bulgur pilaf with chickpeas and spring onions. A chapter on yogurt
includes instructions on how to make yogurt, called madzoon, and a
variety of drinks such as jajik (yogurt with cucumber), yogurt cheese,
yogurt bechamel and tanabour, a yogurt and barley soup with mint and
parsley. There are some fine recipes here that you’re not likely to
find elsewhere, including a fresh fava bean salad with string cheese
and chive oil, Armenian moussaka with lamb, potatoes and a yogurt
bechamel, and an Armenian rata­touille that’s generously seasoned
with fresh marjoram and paprika. If you’re looking for a new cuisine
to explore, this is very satisfying.