The Sun Herald
Posted on Wed, Sep. 29, 2004

Kebabs fire up the flavor

Marinades play big role in recipes

By SHARON THOMPSON

KNIGHT RIDDER NEWSPAPERS

Meat on a stick is the world’s oldest form of barbecue. Almost every culture
has its own version: Japanese yakitori, French brochettes, Asian satay,
Peruvian anticuchos, Spanish pinchos morunos, Armenian shashlik and Turkish
shish kebabs.

The origin of skewer roasting is usually tied to the Turkish history of
nomadic and semi-nomadic life, when cooking over open-field fires or in
open-pit ovens was common, according to “A Mediterranean Feast” by Clifford
A. Wright. But “given the obvious simplicity of spit-roasting meat over a
fire, I suspect its genesis is earlier,” Wright wrote.

Skewered meals can be as simple as chunks of meat on a bamboo stick or as
elaborate as colorful brochettes served at fancy restaurants. Gourmet
kitchen stores stock whimsical skewers, although Marsha Norris, sales
manager at Williams-Sonoma, said she recommends the inexpensive wooden
sticks.

“Vegetables or meat tend to stick to the wooden ones a little bit better,”
she said.

Wooden skewers should be soaked 20 to 30 minutes, which delays the burning
of the bamboo.

So what makes the perfect shish kebab? First, there’s the meat. Lamb is
traditional in Central Asia and the Middle and Near East. (Beef is also used
in Iran and the Republic of Georgia.) A marinade of some sort is essential –
first to flavor the meat, then to keep it moist during grilling. Slices of
onion or peppers placed between the cubes of meat add flavor and color. A
brisk fire is needed to sear the meat quickly, while a generous basting with
olive oil or saffron-flavored butter keeps the kebab from drying out,
according to Steven Raichlen, author of “Barbecue Bible” and “BBQ USA.”

Mike Critchfield, an owner of Critchfield Meats in Lexington, Ky., said the
best pieces of beef for skewering are “tenderloin tips, which is filet
mignon as it falls off when I cut the meat.

“A lot of people try to mix chicken and beef,” he said. “That’s not a good
idea. It takes chicken longer to cook than beef,” he said.

Kebabs are a perfect choice for any cookout. You can use meats, seafood,
vegetables and fruits to suit everyone’s tastes. They can be made in advance
so the host or hostess also can enjoy the party.

BUILD-YOUR-OWN

SHISH KEBABS

DIJON-ROSEMARY STEAK

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, stemmed

4 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

¼ cup olive oil

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 pound sirloin steak, cut into 1-inch cubes

Whisk together all the ingredients (except the steak) in a bowl. Toss the
steak in the mixture until evenly coated. Cover and marinate in refrigerator
for 2 hours.

CITRUS-TARRAGON CHICKEN

1 orange, zested, then juiced, remainder discarded

1 lemon, zested, then juiced, remainder discarded

1 lime, zested, then juiced, remainder discarded

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon fresh tarragon leaves

¼ cup soy sauce

¼ cup canola oil

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch cubes

Whisk together all the ingredients (except the chicken) in a bowl. Toss the
chicken in the mixture until evenly coated. Cover and marinate in
refrigerator for 2 hours.

LEMON-GARLIC SHRIMP

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 shallots, minced

1 bay leaf, fresh or dried

2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves

¼ cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley

1 teaspoon chili pepper flakes

¼ cup olive oil

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 pound (16 to 20 count) shrimp, shelled and deveined

Whisk together all the ingredients (except the shrimp) in a bowl. Toss the
shrimp in the mixture until evenly coated. Cover and marinate in
refrigerator for 2 hours.

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Skewer savvy

Soak wooden skewers in water for 15 to 30 minutes so they won’t burn on the
grill. Wooden skewers should be discarded after use.

Some cooks prefer flat, metal skewers so cubed food doesn’t spin while
turning. If you grill often, consider investing in a set. They are good year
after year, require no soaking and are easier to use than the wooden ones.

Shrimp, scallops and other wobbly bits benefit from the double-skewer
technique: Thread the pieces on a skewer, then run another one through the
pieces parallel to the first, about a half-inch away.

If you are having vegetarian guests, cook the meat and vegetables on
separate skewers so they can pick up a stick of vegetables. If your guests
will be assembling their own skewers, place meat and vegetables in separate
bowls.

– KRT