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Posted on Sun, Mar. 27, 2005

WINE REVIEW

Spicy white good with Southern fare

By Wendy Miller

CONTRIBUTING WINE WRITER

Just when you had conquered gewurtztraminer, along comes another
white wine — rkatsiteli (ar-kat-si-TEL-lee) — that rewards efforts
of pronunciation. I first tasted it in Tbilisi, Georgia, more than
30 years ago. It made such an impression that I still remember floral
aromas (that I now know are like some rieslings) and a spicy, herbal
flavor (that I now know is like some gewurtztraminers).

Although relatively unfamiliar in the United States, the grape has been
around for thousands of years, originating in the Caucasus Mountains,
and is planted widely outside the United States. On this soil, it
thrives in the Finger Lakes vineyards of the Dr. Konstantin Frank
winery in New York.

The Dr. Konstantin Frank 2002 Rkatsiteli bears enough resemblance
to an Alsatian gewurtztraminer that it would pair well with Thai and
Szechuan dishes. I served it with grilled chicken and crudites with
a creamy lime-chipotle dip. It was a marriage made in heaven.

Closer to the American Southern palate, it would be great with fried
chicken, sweet potatoes, a collard green gratin and a salad with
buttermilk dressing. Of course, dishes from Georgia and Armenia,
like satsivi — grilled chicken with a rich, spicy walnut sauce —
stuffed grape leaves, flat bread with mozzarella or Muenster or
a tomato-laced eggplant caviar would lend an exotic edge to this
fabulous American wine.

I found it in Midway for less than $20, but it might be on Lexington
shelves as well.