Former resident has a new cookbook of Armenian recipes
BY LYNDA REGO
Tuesday, March 22, 2005
[email protected]
If one of your New Year’s resolutions was to eat healthier, you might
want to check out “Simply Armenian,” a cookbook by Barbara Ghazarian,
formerly of Barrington. Inspired by her mother and grandmother,
Barbara learned to cook. But, after years in this country, the menu
had become decidedly mixed. “My family’s Armenian identity was melting
into the American pot,” she said.
Then, because her Armenian husband enjoyed the classic dishes, she
began to cook Armenian.
The Ghazarians lived in Barrington for a year and a half, before
husband Vatche’s job took them to Monterey, Calif., in December of
2003. But, they divide their time between California and Middletown,
where they have a condo, and they still subscribe to the Barrington
Times.
Barbara, who is half Armenian, credits her Barrington neighbors for
providing a sounding board as she chose recipes for the book. She
wanted dishes that would appeal to the American family and that would
be easy to understand and prepare.
“During the final stages … my neighbors were my primary
taste-testers,” she said, and three former Primrose neighbors, Lisa
Fucile, Betsy Gould and Diane Kelly, are mentioned in the book’s
acknowledgments.
Barbara said sharing is an important part of enjoying cooking and
food. She recommends inviting a friend over to cook and doubling the
recipe, so you each have a dish to enjoy or serve your family.
“Sharing cuisine on Deerfield Drive was not a one-way street,”
Barbara said. “My daughter, who was weaned on hummus, enjoyed her
first peanut butter and jelly sandwich at a neighbor’s house.”
Lisa Fucile, who has 10-year-old twins, a boy and girl, Samantha and
Cameron, turned Barbara’s daughter on to peanut butter; actually,
“Peanut butter and rocks (peanut butter and mini-mini-chocolate
chips). It’s the healthy version of a peanut butter cup,” Lisa said,
laughing.
“Barbara makes it pretty easy,” Lisa said of the cookbook. “She really
does cook like a regular person. It’s not like gourmet cooking where
you have to be afraid. Even her daughter eats all of it.
“I was a taste-tester. My whole family was. She would have us over to
taste recipes and ask our opinion.” Barbara would prepare the recipe
with different seasoning amounts and keep perfecting it.
This is Barbara’s second cookbook. The first was “The Kindred
Kitchen,” published in 1995. An experienced cook with a laboratory
science background, she also wrote a weekly culinary column for a
Los Angeles newspaper and taught culinary writing in Boston. She
lectures from coast to coast on Armenian-related topics and also is
the author of “Descendants of Noah: Stories of Armenian Apostolic
Faith and Heritage.”
Her attempt to make Armenian cooking more accessible is a hit. The
book has garnered good reviews and sales. It’s popular with dieters
because the recipes utilize lots of vegetables and olive oil instead
of butter. Plus, bulgur (pre-cooked cracked wheat) is a whole grain
that has fewer carbohydrates than rice or potatoes.
“I have taken the intimidation factor out of Armenian fare, but not
the taste, smells and exotic look of the food,” Barbara said. “It’s
time to learn the magic of creating a feast out of a basket of fresh
vegetables and a handful of bulgur.”
‘Simply Armenian: Naturally Healthy Ethnic Cooking Made Easy”
Barbara Ghazarian’s cookbook is easy to read and simple to follow. All
of the recipes are easily prepared by someone familiar with a kitchen,
and they range from quick and easy to a two-day process to make
spiced jerky.
* The 7×9-inch soft-cover book contains 296 pages and more than 150
recipes, including appetizers and spreads, salads, soups, stuffed
pastries, main dishes, breads, pizzas, drinks, desserts, and fruits
and candies.
* Because Armenian cuisine relies heavily on vegetables and grains,
more than half of the recipes are meat-free. And, the Armenian Orthodox
calendar has 180 fasting days a year, so Lenten dishes are marked.
* Included are classics from stuffed grape leaves, hummus and baba
ghanoush to dishes familiar to most Americans, such as rice pilaf,
shish kebab, lentil soup, roast lamb, paklava (baklava is the Greek
name) and other sweets.
* Recipes include not only a list of ingredients, but also if any
“special equipment” is needed; although, this includes items most
modern kitchens have (or can easily buy), such as a food processor,
blender, wooden skewers, cake pans of various sizes and a candy
thermometer. The least-owned item is probably a mortar and pestle. And,
there are mail-order sources listed in back if you can’t find some of
the herbs and spices locally. And, for the more exotic ingredients,
substitutions are usually suggested.
* Lamb is the preferred meat, but beef can be substituted
everywhere. Other staples are chicken, eggplant, nuts and fruits.
* For the gardener, the cookbook is an inspiration to plant purslane,
mint, Swiss chard and flat-leaf parsley.
* To order a copy of the book, visit Barrington Books on County Road
or send a check for $17.95 plus $4 for shipping to Enfield Books,
P.O. Box 699, Enfield, NH 03748; 603/632-7377.
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Feta Cheese Topped Eggplant Rounds
Makes 12
Here’s a totally vegetarian, pizza-style dish that many proclaim to
be one of the best original recipes in the collection.
* Non-stick cooking spray
* 1 large eggplant, peeled and sliced into 1/4-inch-thick rounds
* Salt
* 1/2 pound feta cheese, crumbled (about 1 1/2 cups)
* 2 large eggs
* 1/2 tsp. ground black pepper
* 1/2 green bell pepper, minced
* 1 tbsp. olive oil, plus 1/4 cup for brushing
* 1/2 onion, minced
* 2 tomatoes, minced
* 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
* 1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Spray two baking sheets evenly with
cooking spray. Set aside.
2. Soak the eggplant rounds in a large bowl of generously salted
cold water for at least 15 minutes. Soaking the rounds eliminates any
bitterness, inhibits oil absorption, and firms the rounds to better
support the topping.
3. While the eggplant is soaking, mix together the feta, eggs, and
black pepper in a large bowl and set aside.
4. Cook the green pepper in a skillet with 1 tbsp. olive oil
over low heat until the pepper softens, about 10 minutes. Add the
onion. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are
tender, another 10 minutes. Remove from heat, and combine with the
feta mixture. Add the tomatoes, parsley and lemon juice. Toss until
the topping ingredients are mixed well.
5. Now it’s time to remove the eggplant rounds from the water. Pat
them dry with paper towels, brush the top and bottom of each slice
with olive oil and arrange the oiled rounds on the prepared baking
sheets. Spread a spoonful of feta mixture on top of each round until
covered.
6. Bake for 25 minutes.
7. Serve warm as an appetizer or as a side, complementing any of the
grilled lamb dishes.
Grilled Lemon Chicken
Serves 8
n 2 pounds skinless chicken thighs (small breasts or legs are fine,
too)
The Marinade:
* Juice of 3 lemons
* 3 tbsp. balsamic vinegar
* 1 tbsp. dried mint
* 1 tsp. ground cumin
* 1 tsp. salt
* 1/2 tsp. oregano
* 1/2 tsp. thyme
* 1/4 tsp. ground black pepper
* 1/4 tsp. cayenne
1. Place the chicken in a large baking dish or plastic container.
2. Combine the marinade ingredients in a separate bowl, mixing
well. Pour over the chicken, cover and refrigerate for at least 2
hours. Turn the chicken pieces over halfway through the marinating
time.
3. Prepare a charcoal or gas grill and grill the chicken over
a medium-hot fire, turning as needed, until done, about 12 to 15
minutes a side.
4. For a fabulous summer meal, serve this snappy chicken with a side
of pilaf, grilled eggplant and a salad.
______________________________________________________________________________
Barbara Ghazarian, author of “Simply Armenian: Naturally Healthy
Ethnic Cooking Made Easy,” will visit Barrington Books on County Road
on Thursday, March 31, from 7 to 9 p.m. for a “Taste of Armenia”
book signing. Mrs. Ghazarian will talk about cooking Armenian food
and explore the culture a little. Armenians love sweets. Delicious,
easy to make apricot squares and traditional sugar syrup-drenched
phyllo triangles stuffed with ground nuts and a hint of cinnamon will
be served at the event, along with Mrs. Ghazarian’s signature quince
preserves. Starbucks will provide the coffee. The event is free and
open to the public.
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