Bangkok Post – Thailand;
Sep 23, 2005
BEAUTIFUL CHEMISTRY
Interviewing a famous perfumer, you can’t help being nosy about how
he keeps his olfactory organs fit to do the job, what he eats to
nourish a great sense of smell, and, oh yeah, does he insure his two
gifted nostrils?
But for the busy Francis Kurkdjian, a leading figure on the fragrance
scene, frivolous questions were swept aside to make room for serious
_ but not too serious _ matters of the nose.
Not your average fragrance designer, Kurkdjian’s background is in
classical dance and music, but he left the fancy footwork and the
do-re-mi’s behind to create sweet smelling notes instead. At the age
of 15 he set his heart on becoming a perfume pro.
Elizabeth Arden’s Green Tea, Lancome’s Miracle Homme, and Armani
Mania are some of his non-Jean Paul Gaultier’s creations. For the
French fashion provocateur, Kurkdjian devised Le Male, Fragile and
the new Gaultier to the Power of Two.
The charming 36-year-old Frenchman with Armenian roots was recently
in Bangkok to unveil John Paul Gaultier’s new perfume, and shared
some of his aromatic expertise.
The recipe for a great perfumer?
Good olfactory memory, senses, passion, and flexibility to switch and
absorb each brand’s character or style. Also patience, because
creating one fragrance can take up to three years. For Gaultier to
the Power of Two it took 18 or 19 months. In terms of academics,
perfumers should have a knowledge of chemicals.
How do you get inspiration for a new fragrance?
Rather than specialise in a particular note combination or style, I
like to switch olfactory territories to explore new challenges.
What do you look for in a great perfume?
Finesse in everything, including the ingredients, process, bottle and
concept. It does not have to be complicated; it can be simple and
still be perfect. Less is more. Jean Paul Gaultier and I have the
same opinion about this.
What’s trendy in fragrances right now?
There are different preferences. Asian people are in favour of a
fresh and floral family, but there is no definitive trend. When I
create a fragrance, I never think of trends.
Your most important tip in choosing a new scent?
It may sound obvious, but simply choosing a perfume that appeals to
you is my best advice.
The worst mistake you can make wearing a fragrance?
For me, there are no limitations to wearing perfume. Many people like
to spray it on at the pulsation points where the fragrance will
develop. But why not spray it in the air like a shower, or if you
prefer, on a cloth. But we should be careful not to overwhelm others
in closed areas like the lift.
Any tips for smelling sweet in a hot climate?
I understand that using perfume is not a habit of Asians. You can use
less strong fragrances or start with a perfumed bath line _ body
lotion, shower gels or deodorant are a good start for people who
aren’t used to wearing a fragrance.
From: Emil Lazarian | Ararat NewsPress