Edmonton Journal (Alberta)
October 12, 2005 Wednesday
Final Edition
Jerusalem weekend full of wonders: After just two days in this holy
city you’ll know why there isn’t a better place to pray for peace
by Bonnie Stern, For National Post; CanWest News Service
JERUSALEM
JERUSALEM – Holy ground to three world religions — Judaism,
Christianity and Islam — Jerusalem has been fought over for more
than 3,000 years. Yet to visitors the city seems peaceful and
welcoming.
Day 1
MORNING: Start with an Israeli breakfast, usually included in your
hotel rate. You will be amazed at the huge buffet of salads —
Israelis eat salads all day — fresh fruits, cheese, smoked fish,
omelettes, chocolate croissants and more.
Your first goal is to explore the walled Old City. It is divided into
four quarters: the Armenian Quarter, Muslim Quarter, Jewish Quarter
and Christian Quarter. For an overview of the history of the city,
start at the Jaffa Gate and the Tower of David History of Jerusalem
Museum (towerofdavid.org.il/eng) just inside the gates.
Then continue into the Armenian Quarter and visit the Cathedral of
St. James. Stand in the peaceful cobblestoned courtyard where the
disciple James was stoned and where James the Apostle was beheaded.
And don’t miss the lovely Armenian Art Centre where there are
striking hand-painted tiles and pottery for sale.
For a breathtaking view, head to the Petra Hostel in the Old City. Go
up the rickety stairs to the front desk and pay about $1.25 to go to
the roof. Spread before you is the Tower of David Museum, the
Armenian Quarter, the Mount of Olives, the gold-domed Mosque that
dominates the Jerusalem skyline and the two grey domes of the Church
of the Holy Sepulchre.
Across the street from the hostel is where the ancient souk begins.
Enter and get ready for sensory overload. When you see a lot of
pilgrim religious artifacts for sale you will know you are close to
the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where Jesus was entombed.
AFTERNOON: By now you should be getting hungry. Abu Shukri, a tiny
aluminum-fronted food stall in the exotic Muslim quarter is said to
have the most delicious hummus and falafel on the planet. Ask anyone
for directions. If it is packed (there are only a few seats, but the
turnover is fast), go to Lina’s across the street. There are spirited
debates over whose falafel is the best.
Continue on to the Cardo, the original shopping mall in the Jewish
Quarter. The ancient long underground street is lined on both sides
with stores. Try Mira for beautiful handcrafted jewellery and Bar On
and Chaya for handwoven table linens and prayer shawls.
A must-see in the Jewish Quarter is the Western Wall, the holiest
place for Jews. Men and women visit the Wall in separate areas and
tourists can watch or join in. Many people push a tiny written prayer
or supplication between the stones in the Wall, as this is considered
the closest place to God.
Nearby — you’ll recognize it because it is manned by soldiers — is
the entrance to the Temple Mount and the Dome of the Rock. If it is
open, go to the Temple Mount first because visiting hours are
limited. This holy Muslim site is where Muhammad ascended to heaven.
Although only Muslims can enter the mosques, the Temple Mount area
can be visited by tourists.
Before leaving the Old City, do not miss the Southern Wall
excavations. Enter though the Davidson’s Visitors Centre and explore
2,000 years of history above and below ground.
You will end up just inside the Dung Gate where taxis are available
to take you to the garden of the elegant American Colony Hotel, the
haunt of foreign journalists and celebrities. Or head for the
stunning terrace of The King David Hotel. Have a celebratory
pre-dinner drink because if you have done all this sightseeing — or
even some of it — you deserve to celebrate.
EVENING: Enjoy a relaxing dinner at Olive and Fish (2 Jabotinsky
St.), where they offer a large assortment of appetizer salads and
Israeli fish and meat specialties.
Day 2
MORNING: Start the day at one of the city’s great coffeehouses. Try
the Hillel Cafe or Aroma Cafe with their yogurt, honey and granola
specialties and delicious breakfast breads.
Take a taxi to the Israel Museum (it is closed Tuesdays,
imjorg.il/eng). Don’t miss the Dead Sea Scrolls housed separately in
the Shrine of the Book, a building shaped like the lid of the clay
jars in which the scrolls were found. The main building contains the
archeology of Israel, an amazing collection of Judaica and modern
Israeli art.
AFTERNOON: Have lunch in the museum restaurant in the lower level of
the main complex. They serve a lovely salad buffet, soup and a wide
selection of sandwiches at reasonable prices. After lunch, walk over
to the nearby Knesset, the parliamentary buildings, to see the
gigantic bronze menorah with bas-reliefs showing events in Jewish
history.
Next, take a taxi to Yad Vashem, the Holocaust Memorial (vashem.org),
with the newly designed museum by Canadian-Israeli architect Moshe
Safdie. As sombre as it might be, Yad Vashem gives visitors insight
into the seminal event in recent Jewish history.
For a lighter experience, join the locals, who love to buy their
fruits and vegetables in Mahane Yehuda, an open-air market on Agripas
Street. Be sure to try the world-famous chocolate rugalahs at
Marzipan bakery.
Take a taxi to the pedestrian mall on Ben Yehuda Street to finish
your shopping. For more handcrafted pottery and jewellery go through
Zion Square to Yoel Salomon Street. Have coffee or a snack in the
charming literary coffeehouse, ‘Tmol-Shilshom.
EVENING: For your send-off dinner, try Arcadia (10 Agripas St.), a
hidden gem that has received raves from Israeli and international
restaurant reviewers. After dinner, investigate Jerusalem’s outdoor
coffee cafe culture and find out why Starbucks couldn’t make inroads
here.
After just two days in Jerusalem you’ll know why there isn’t a better
place to pray for peace.
IF YOU GO
Where to stay:
– King David Hotel: This is Jerusalem’s finest luxury hotel. It is
located within walking distance of the Old City. Double rooms start
at $284 US (danhotels.com).
– Inbal: A very modern, elegant hotel. Double rooms start at $220 US
(inbal-hotel.co.il).
– Grand Court Hotel: A new hotel, it has large modern rooms and the
price is excellent — though the location is off the beaten track.
Double rooms start at $100 US ().
– Shabbat: If you have limited time in Jerusalem do not plan your
visit for Friday or Saturday as restaurants, shops and tourist sites
close early on Friday. Many do not reopen until after sundown on
Saturday night. Non-kosher restaurants and hotel restaurants are
open, however, and some tourist sites are open on Saturday.