Jerusalem Post, Israel
May 26 2006
Food: The Jerusalem melting pot
By OFER ZEMACH
In a city divided among a variety of religions and ethnic groups, it
might be expected that even gastronomy is not entirely free of
politics. It is certainly a fascinating adventure for both the palate
and the soul.
The food scene in Jerusalem has changed over the decades, and the
diverse inhabitants have created a live-and-let-live state of
culinary affairs.
In a beautiful stone house in the heart of Nahalat Shiva, Kangaroo
restaurant is a meeting place for the Georgian community. David and
Lina Chiskarshvili, who made aliya from Georgia in 1992, offer
exclusive dishes such as khinkali, tzebork and khachapuri – staples
of the Georgian cuisine. Patrons of this eatery also have the
opportunity to savor Georgian wines while taking in a unique
ambiance.
Lina’s Khinkali
1 kg. minced meat.
3 onions, finely chopped
1/4 cup cilantro
1/4 cup fresh parsley
500 gr. flour
salt and pepper to taste
Mince the meat with the onions, coriander and parsley in a food
processor. Season the minced meat with salt and pepper, adding 1
glass of warm water, and mix thoroughly.
Sift the flour and form a “mound,” making a dip in the center. Pour
in a glass of water, add some salt and knead the dough.
Roll out the dough to a thin layer and cut out rounds using a glass
or a cup. Put a spoonful of the meat mixture in the center of the
dough circle. Gather the edges together into a bunch and twist the
top. Press down slightly to create a form similar to a bulb. Drop
khinkali into boiling salted water. They tend to drop to the bottom
and then rise to the top of the water. Stir occasionally to prevent
from sticking. Allow to boil for a few minutes. Serve hot.
Nestled in a cave in the Armenian Quarter, across the street from the
police station (near David’s Tower), the Armenian Taverne is one of
the only places in the country that serves Armenian cuisine. A narrow
staircase leads to the arched spacious dining room where authentic
paraphernalia adorn the walls. Soujookh (Armenian spiced dried
sausage), churek (flat Armenian bread with sesame seeds) and kadin
budu kufta (breaded meat ovals), are among the highlights of the rich
menu.
Armenian Eggplant Casserole
1 eggplant
4 tomatoes
1 green pepper, diced
1/4 cup olive oil
1 clove garlic, finely minced
pepper, freshly ground
1 medium onion, sliced
1 1/2 tsp. salt
Peel and dice eggplant. Heat oil in a skillet and add onion, green
pepper and eggplant. Stir over low heat until eggplant is soft. Add
tomatoes, salt and pepper and simmer a few minutes. At this point you
can add basil, chives, parsley, tarragon or oregano to taste. Turn
into casserole dish and bake at 175 for 40 minutes. May be served hot
or cold.
Rehov Mea She’arim got its name from the maze of yards with an
endless number of gates facing the nearby Old City. Among the tiny
shops adorning the street is Deitch, an East European Jewish food
restaurant. The kitchen at this “men only” eatery dishes up
Jerusalemite kugel, two types of gefilte fish, chicken soup, mashed
potatoes and chopped liver. If you visit on a holiday you’ll find
homemade kreplach as well. With a no-reservation policy, the prices
at this eatery are a bargain.
Chopped liver
1 kg. chicken liver (koshered)
4 onions, finely chopped
4 Tbsp. schmaltz (fat)
4 hard-boiled eggs
salt and pepper
In a large skillet, fry onions in schmaltz until lightly browned. Set
aside. If needed, add more schmaltz to skillet and saut liver until
just done. Remove from skillet.
Using a meat grinder, coarsely grind ingredients separately. (If a
you do not have a meat grinder, a Cuisinart can be used but results
will be pastier.) Season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix in a
large bowl.
Refrigerate until ready to serve with rye bread or a bagel.
In 1868, the first stone house was built outside the walls of the Old
City. Today, that same building, a living memory of the early days of
the settlement of new Jerusalem, houses an elite restaurant,
appropriately named “1868.”
Chef Menahem Katz, who grew up with the aromas of a traditional
Jewish home in Mea She’arim, brings a young, refreshing culinary
accent to the kitchen of the restaurant, combining raw materials from
the Jerusalem area with French and Italian traditional cooking.
Menahem Katz’s Bass with Garlic Puree
6 bass fillets
500 gr. garlic cloves
1 Tbsp. sugar
1 small red chilli pepper
1 tsp. ground coriander seeds
1 c. white wine
250 ml. cream
salt and pepper to taste
Cook garlic in wine over low heat for approximately half an hour
until wine is completely reduced; strain.
Bring cream to a boil; add sugar, coriander, salt.
Add garlic and puree the mixture.
Season the fish with salt and pepper, place in a pan lined with waxed
paper.
Bake at high temperature for 5-10 minutes.
Place fillet on top of garlic puree and serve.