Watertown TAB & Press, MA
June 23 2006
Yummy goodies in Little Armenian bakery
By Katie McDonough/ Correspondent
Friday, June 23, 2006 – Updated: 10:54 AM EST
In most respects, winding Mount Auburn Street is a world away from
the majestic snowcapped mountains of Armenia. However, those familiar
with the area know that Watertown boasts a large Armenian population,
with a cultural and commercial center in and around Coolidge Square.
The ample variety of Middle Eastern bakeries, restaurants and shops
there form a captivating representation of that part of the world.
In the busy patchwork of the area some call "Little Armenia," one
business stands out from its competition. Massis Bakery and Specialty
Food Store has been in town longer than many Watertown residents.
The Ourfalian family opened the bakery in 1977 after coming to America
from Beirut, Lebanon. Having already been in the bakery business in
Beirut for a number of years, the family had plenty of experience
to apply to their new venture. Of course, starting fresh in a new
country brings its own challenges, and it took a few years for the
business to blossom.
The family~Rs two sons, Sarkis and Missak, were of high school age at
the time the bakery opened. The brothers helped their parents with the
business during high school and college, and even lent a hand through
the years when they pursued their own careers (Sarkis worked as an
engineer and Missak as an accountant). Now the roles are reversed:
The brothers run all parts of the business with only occasional help
from their parents.
In its almost 30 years in Watertown, Massis Bakery has changed
considerably. Though it began as a small, predominantly Armenian bakery
and grocery store, the business has expanded to overtake neighboring
sites and include a wide array of items for sale.
"As we grew and changed our product line, the store became more than
just Armenian," Sarkis Ourfalian said.
The name Massis, which refers to a mountain in Armenia, now serves more
as a reminder of the bakery~Rs origins than an accurate description
of its products. In addition to the traditional Middle Eastern items,
they currently import products such as olive oil and chocolate from
various countries such as Greece and Italy.
One of the first things you notice when you enter Massis Bakery is
the sheer volume of products inside. From the bakery counter on the
far right to the olive bar in the back left corner, there~Rs a little
bit of everything.
"If you come to our store and look up and down the aisles, you might
think you~Rre in Europe," Ourfalian said. "At the same time you might
be in Greece or Lebanon or other places in the world."
Like many businesses, Massis Bakery has had to make certain adjustments
over the years to keep up with a constantly evolving clientele. Even
their most enduring products, such as homemade Armenian pizza called
lahmejune, have undergone some modification.
"The traditionallahmejune is made with lamb or beef, but we make
it with chicken, or we make it vegetarian," Ourfalian said. "As the
clientele has changed, we~Rve accommodated."
The family has taken a similar approach with many of their bakery
items, including various kinds of cookies and pastries made fresh each
day. The traditional cookies, most of which include some combination of
dates, figs and sesame seeds, are available in a number of adaptations.
In addition to this keen ability to adapt to customers~R changing
tastes, another reason for the store~Rs success is the recent
popularity of Middle Eastern and Mediterranean foods. "Some of our
specialties, liketabouleh andhomus (or hummus), were not as well
known to people in the past," Ourfalian said.
As such foods came into the mainstream in recent years, larger
supermarket chains began carrying these products. It~Rs reasonable
to assume that this fact would hurt small, independent stores such
as Massis Bakery, but Ourfalian has a different perspective. "People
taste the foods in the supermarket, and then they taste ours. Right
away, they can tell there~Rs a big difference," Ourfalian said. "In
that way, supermarkets have improved our business."
Ourfalian is also quick to point out that the foods are not only
tasty but very nutritious as well. The family uses mostly fresh,
natural ingredients, such as fruits, vegetables, nuts, seeds and
spices, in everything they make. This aspect appeals to a number of
demographics, from dieters and health food fiends to conscientious
parents and those with restrictive medical conditions. With a booming
business and growing clientele, it~Rs clear that such meticulous
measures are appreciated.
When you~Rre inside the bakery, it~Rs impossible not to be taken in
by all the colors and aromas around you; each aisle has something new
and intriguing you may not have heard of or tried before. One of the
most interesting things to see in the bakery, though, is not one of
the imported products or homemade bakery items for sale. Hanging on the
wall to right of the door as you enter are two framed photographs. The
top photo, taken in 1977, shows the two young brothers, Sarkis and
Missak, with their parents behind the bakery counter. The photo
below shows the same four faces beaming out from behind the same
counter 26 years later. Though decades have passed and the business
has transformed again and again, the family~Rs pride in and passion
for their work will continue well into the future.
What smells so good?
Massis Bakery is at 569 Mount Auburn St., and it~Rs open Monday
through Saturday from 8 a.m.-8 p.m. Visit massisbakery.com for more
information.