Food & Drink – Reviews – Garni – Authentic Armenian in Chiswick
By Sejal Sukhadwala
Time Out
August 23, 2006
A bowl of beans arrived, and we immediately knew this meal was going
to be special. The plump, shiny kidney beans shone like rubies amid a
light dressing of garlicky crushed walnut paste, and had clearly been
cooked rather than taken from a tin. We greedily decided to share a
platter of five starters. Stuffed vine leaves were served with
cinnamon-scented mazdoon (the lush own-made yoghurt that’s a staple
of Armenian cookery).
Marble-white balls of feta and cream cheese, speckled with parsley
and dill, came cradled inside baby peppers. The only disappointment
was the steamed dumplings with undercooked pastry and dry spiced-veal
stuffing.
Garni is arguably London’s only true Armenian restaurant. Bayswater’s
Erebuni offers a few Armenian dishes, and Jakob’s on Gloucester Road
has an Iranian-influenced Armenian menu – but Garni specialises in
ancient Armenian cooking. Previously the proprietress Larissa
Arakelyan was owner of Libation wine bar on the same site. Her cosy
venue certainly looks attractive. There are fresh orchids on the bar,
and pastel-hued retro lampshades that cast demure shadows over
proceedings. The glass front opens out onto the street, where a few
tables are laid for al fresco dining, while at the rear is a tiny
covered courtyard where a barbecue chef cooks over charcoal.
Armenian food is a cross between Turkish and Russian, with influences
from neighbouring Georgia, Iran, Iraq and Syria. You’ll find aromatic
spices, an abundance of fresh verdant herbs, and the aubergines of
Turkish cookery, combined with the dumplings, fruit, and walnut
pastes of Russia and Georgia. We liked the eponymous ‘garni’ – a
delicious ancient recipe of baked aubergines stuffed with herbed
minced veal and bulgur, topped with grated carrot and tomatoes. Also
enjoyable was the fluffy, buttery pilaf that came with
charcoal-grilled aubergines, peppers, tomatoes and green beans, whose
musky smokiness was enlivened by a sharp, refreshing lemon tang. The
accompanying bread basket contained warm, crisp lavash, and soft,
round pillows of sesame-studded churek.
In contrast, a platter of Armenian cakes and pastries – variously
filled with nuts, honey, cream and sugar – was somewhat dry and
brittle. For afters it’s better, perhaps, to stick to the delightful
strong Armenian coffee and fresh thyme tea.
The wine arrangements are idiosyncratic. Three red and three white
vins de Pays d’Oc are sold by the glass. If you want a bottle, you
have to buy it from the on-site ‘shop’ (in reality a large wine rack
in a wall niche), where it’s available at shop prices. The menu also
lists breakfast, brunch and specialities. Of particular interest is
khash – a festive soup made from cow’s feet, garlic, radish and
greens – but you have to give two days’ notice for it, so you might
just want to stick with a brilliant little bowl of beans.
Garni, 472 Chiswick High St, W4 5TT (020 8995 5129) Chiswick Park
tube. Open daily 7am-11pm. Meal for two with wine and service: around
£60.
– Time Out reviews anonymously and pays for meals
THE BILL
Platter of five starters – £15
Veal-stuffed aubergines – £8.50
Charcoal vegetables and pilaf – £7.50
Bread basket – £1.50
Armenian cakes – £8.50
Fruit and cheese platter – £5.50
Large bottle still water – £2.25
Bottle French rose – £14.50
Armenian coffee – £1.50
Thyme tea – £1.85
Subtotal – £66.60
Cash tip – £8.40
Total – £75.
–Boundary_(ID_ckODGVnCXTS8SBa/nWtPrw)- –
