A WALK AROUND OLD Ä°STANBUL: ZEYREK, FATIH, FENER AND BALAT

Today’s Zaman
Turkey
26.06.08

It is impossible to walk around the narrow, cobbled streets of the
walled city of old Ä°stanbul without thinking of those who have
preceded you over the centuries.

The feet of pious Byzantine Greek clergyman, loutish Crusaders from
the less-civilized parts of Europe, proud Ottoman paÅ~_as with their
retinues of servants, Armenian merchants, Jewish shopkeepers and gypsy
fortunetellers, amongst countless others, have tramped these streets.

But for anyone attempting to write about walking around the old city
two much more contemporary figures immediately spring to mind: Hilary
Sumner-Boyd and John Freely. Their "Strolling through Ä°stanbul,"
an erudite labor of love first published in 1972, describes 23 walks
through one of the world’s greatest cities — and if you really want
to get to know this venerable metropolis, get a hold of a copy and
walk their walks. Here, in the meantime, is a description of a meander
on foot through one of the most fascinating and little-visited areas
of the old city: the northwest quarter. Bounded by the land walls of
Theodosius to the north, the Golden Horn to the east, busy Ataturk
Buvarı to the south and Fevzi PaÅ~_a Caddesi to the west, it, unlike
most of this rapidly expanding city, has changed little over the last
50 or so years. Allow a full day for the outing though you could,
of course, abandon the route at several points or join it beyond the
suggested start-point.

Begin on Ataturk Bulvarı, just north of where restoration work is
under way on a Byzantine cistern. Head steeply uphill on Ä°ftaiye
Caddesi, then take a sharp right, up onto İbedethane Sokagı, then
again right onto Adalet Sokagı where you’ll find the entrance to
Zeyrek Camii, shaded by an enormous plane tree and once the important
Byzantine monastery-church of Christ Pantacrator. To have a look
inside you’ll need to track down the caretaker, but be warned, the
interior is quite shabby and the plans to restore this church/mosque
to its original glory are slow in materializing. Retrace your steps
to İbedethane Sokagı. Heading west, this soon becomes Cırcır
Caddesi. Continue north and west, crossing NevÅ~_ehirli Caddesi. If
it’s a Wednesday, you’ll soon find yourself surrounded by the sights,
sounds and smells of the city’s biggest daily bazaar. Artichoke
hearts float invitingly in buckets of water and white mulberries,
plump red cherries, delicate orange-pink apricots and deep purple-red
plums adorn the stalls in the fruit and vegetable section of this busy
street market. Turn left up Yeserizade Sokagı and enter the grounds
of imposing Fatih Camii — an oasis of peace after the bustle of the
market. After exploring this fine mosque, exit its grounds from the
northwest and follow DaruÅ~_Å~_afaka Caddesi. Turn right and head
south, down on broad Yavuz Selim Caddesi to the dramatically situated
mosque complex of the Yavuz Selim (Selimiye) Camii — a most austere
yet successful design often — wrongly — assigned to the great
architect Sinan. The sunken recreation/park area on your left as you
approach the mosque was once the Byzantine-era Aspar Cistern. On a
side street to the right is the Sultan Sarnıc, a recently restored
covered Byzantine cistern with a lovely vaulted brick ceiling and
rows of reused Roman columns and Corinthian capitals supporting it —
but note that it is now a function room rather than a museum.

Having explored Selimiye Camii and its tombs, head northwest onto
Sultan Selim Caddesi and turn left. Bear right in front of a quaint
19th century neo-classical building — now a police station — and
follow Manyasızade Sokagı, which soon becomes Fethiye Caddesi. Reach
the former Byzantine church of Theotokos Pammakaristos by taking
a sharp right onto Fethiye Sokagı. Two-thirds of this attractive
building, formerly the Church of Theotokos Pammakaristos, still
function as a mosque, though again it may well be locked outside
prayer times. The other third, however, was once a side-chapel or
paracclesion of the main church. This has been turned into a museum
and has some wonderful late-Byzantine mosaics. Now return to Fethiye
Caddesi and continue west, down on Draman Caddesi. The Kefeli Camii,
above you on the left, was once a Byzantine church — the apse is
clearly visible on the eastern wall. At the bottom of the hill turn
left, then immediately right, up Nester Sokagı, before taking a
sharp right to the stunning Kariye Camii, once the Byzantine Church
of St. Savior in the Chora. This has some of the most impressive
Byzantine mosaics in the world and is one of Ä°stanbul’s most important
historical sites. Having basked in the glories of Byzantine religious
art, if you’re hungry the food and ambience of the Asithane restaurant,
right next to the museum/mosque/church, are unbeatable — though pricy.

It’s pretty much downhill/level from now on. Head down Kariye Turbesi
Sokagı, admiring the fortitude of the vendors pushing handcarts
of potatoes and onions or pogaca (savory breads) up and down these
steep cobbled streets. Turn left onto Sultan CeÅ~_mesi Sokagı,
passing the unusual wood-built Meydancık Camii, then down onto
Mektebi Sokagı. You are now in the neighborhood of Balat. Here, on
KanıÅ~_ Sokagı, is the Armenian church of Surp HreÅ~_dagabet. Both
Christians and Muslims come to take the supposedly miraculous waters
of the ayazma (sacred spring) and every Sept. 14 sheep and other
animals are sacrificed here in the hope of miraculous cures for the
sick — with Muslims and Christians taking part side by side. Next
to it is an Armenian school, dating to 1866, more recently used
as a warehouse. Unless you have arranged permission from the Chief
Rabbinate earlier, the Ahrida Synagogue just down from the church will
be closed. Many Jews once lived in this area, along with their Muslim
and Christian neighbors. Head southeast down Vodina Caddesi, then
cut through towards the Golden Horn, down Cicekli Sokagı. There’s
a welcome traditional cayhane (teashop) here, with an interesting
antique shop opposite.

Great places to eat

If you didn’t splurge at the Asithane, an altogether different
culinary experience is to be had at the small restaurant at the
corner of Cicekli Sokagı and Mursel PaÅ~_a Caddesi. The Arnavutköy
Köftecisi has been trading for over 60 years, dispensing iÅ~_kembe
corbası (tripe-soup) and delicious köfte to all comers. This eating
place doesn’t have a sign outside and there are only six 1950s tables,
each covered in a different pastel-colored Formica top, but for local
atmosphere and tasty food it’s hard to beat (closed Sundays). Take
care crossing busy Ayvansaray Caddesi to the prominent neo-Gothic
St. Stephens of the Bulgars, a late 19th century cast-iron church
set in a strip of park edging the Golden Horn. Follow the park for a
short while, passing the Women’s Library (Kadın Kutuphanesi) housed
in an old stone-built Greek house. Where the strip of park runs out,
re-cross the road and turn more or less immediately right, then left,
to reach the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate. This is the spiritual heart
of the world’s Orthodox Christian population and the attached Church
of St. George is usually very busy on summer Sunday mornings and at
Easter. Just beyond the patriarchate, the Kozz restaurant, attached to
the Daphnis Hotel, does decent meals, cake and coffee. The 19th century
neo-classical building opposite is now a Greek school, but has only six
pupils. Rejoin Ayvansaray Caddesi and head southeast for around 400
meters. Turn right on Ayak Kapı Sokagı, then take the second left
to reach Gul Camii, formerly the Church of St. Theodosia. It is said
to get its name, the Rose Mosque, because when the Ottoman soldiers
entered it following the capture of the city on May 29, 1453, it was
still decorated with the roses put there by the Christian Byzantine
defenders of the city to mark the feast day of St. Theodosia — also
on May 29. Retrace your steps onto Ayvansaray Caddesi, turn right and
ring the bell on the compound door of the Aya Nikola Greek Orthodox
church, dating from the mid 19th century. A little further down on
the right is the Cıbali Gate, piercing a surviving section of the
sea walls. These mighty fortifications once ran from the eastern
terminus of the land walls, right along the Golden Horn, round the
promontory of Saray Burnu and then all along the Sea of Marmara to
link up with the western end of the land walls. You can now relax a
little, cross the main road and walk along the water’s edge to the
Ataturk Bridge. From here either take a bus or walk along the banks

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