2 Cambridge Street, Edinburgh
Sally Shalam
The Guardian,
Saturday 27 December 2008
To prevent any accusation of professional nepotism, let me start by
saying I have never previously met fellow journalist Erlend Clouston,
who runs 2 Cambridge Street with his wife Hélène. No, I’ve picked this
B&B for other reasons.
Who can resist Edinburgh in the festive season? Winter market stalls,
an ice rink and fairground rides are all laid out in East Princes
Street Gardens beneath the castle’s brooding underpin of volcanic rock.
More temptation. Pictures of 2 Cambridge Street arrive in the post,
depicting a brass bed bathed in amber lamplight, a tiny town garden
conveying Zen-like calm, and an almost Dickensian image of former Star
Wars actor Albert Boat, who is now a chimney sweep, on the roof. A
short film, entitled Asparagus Now! on DVD, lands on my desk, too. A
mini-preview of the Cloustons cooking breakfast, striking a pose in the
"philosopher’s garden", all set to the Ride of the Valkyries. By the
time I check out the website – more laughs – I’m hooked.
Cut to a frosty Edinburgh scene. Castle to my right, neon frontage of
the Traverse Theatre left, and straight ahead a brass knocker on a
classic townhouse door which I waste no time rapping. It’s ‘taters out
here.
Now I’m in the hallway’s warmth, a full-size tuba hanging on the
port-wine hued wall, picking out gold dado rails. Off the hall, a
sitting room wears bold Regency stripes and a thick layer of
bookshelves. To the quiet rumble of a train leaving Waverley Station, I
explore my paisley papered bedroom: sumptuous pink and ruby velvets
covering the bed and a wing armchair. Against this backdrop are myriad
tiny objets and family mementoes, from age-stiffened photo albums and a
tiny antique French portable game to a three-shilling Bartholomew’s
map, and two French military caps lying in wait when I open a cupboard.
Remembering what Billy Connolly said ("never trust anyone who, alone in
a room with a tea cosy, fails to put it on"), I salute myself in a
large gilt mirror on the chimney breast.
Within minutes I’m invited into Erlend’s study by the fire (I’ll bet
most guests end up in here with their hosts sooner or later) while
Hélène, a Franco-Armenian former language teacher (now studying Arabic
in her spare time) brings tea on proper willow-pattern china,
proffering a little plate of baklava.
Goodness, where did the time go? I’ve a breezy appointment with the Big
Wheel, picking up little wrapped German stollens at the market stalls
en route before riding high over Princes Street, then meeting an old
friend. We go to The Dogs (yes, really), a new restaurant in which an
enquiry as to whether a smoked chicken salad is hot or cold earns the
reply, "The clue is in the word ‘salad’", and a vivid barley risotto
with beetroot would certainly win Pinkest Main Course of the Year
should there ever be such a contest. We repair across the road to a
welcoming bar called 99 for fantastic espresso martinis until way past
bedtime.
Breakfast, after a hot blast in my tiny private shower room, is another
quirky Cambridge Street production. In the sitting room, at a perfectly
laid table and to the comforting tick of a longcase clock, a surprise
starter of pistachios in honey and yoghurt precedes a stickily
delicious savoury, mushrooms cooked in soy sauce on toasted ciabatta.
Comfort, style and edifying company inhabit 2 Cambridge Street. And a
healthy dose of humour, too. Cheers to Edinburgh, and Happy New Year.
Best for Hogmanay, of course, but any time for city centre period style.
¢ 2 Cambridge Street (0131-478 0005, wwwonderful.net). Two rooms
available, from £75 single occupancy, £95 double. Advance internet
returns London-Edinburgh, with National Express East Coast (
nationalexpresseastcoast.com, 0845 722 5225), from £28 standard class
or £79 first class. Also check out edinburghschristmas.com.