JOURNEY TO ESFAHAN; ANCIENT CULTURAL CAPITAL OF IRAN
by Carol Hoyt
North Shore News
March 15, 2009 Sunday
British Columbia
ESFAHAN, Iran: Surrounded by several Iranians, answering questions
as they recorded my words, I should have felt intimidated.
"You speak very good English," one of them ventured, to my surprise.
I was on a 27-day tour of Iran with an eclectic group of 16 like-minded
people from Canada, the United States and Australia — all of us over
50 years of age. With us were two guides, one from Iran, the other
from the Netherlands.
We were simply amazed throughout our trip at how friendly the
Iranians are, offering the most sincerely asked questions, like
"Are you being treated well?" I found it fascinating that we were
the curiosity. Students particularly would produce cameras to take
our pictures.
It was a far cry from the reaction I received from friends when
I announced, "I’m going to Iran." That statement was usually met
with shocked silence, puzzled looks, and finally, "You’re going
where? Aren’t you afraid?"
Iran presented me with an incredible opportunity to visit a culture
and country so different from our own.
About five minutes before landing at Imam Khomeini International
Airport in Tehran, the women were reminded to don head scarves and
manteaus; otherwise we would be refused entry. We received positive
nods from our Iranian seatmates, which set the stage for our journey.
We visited several cities and sites, including Tehran, Shiraz,
Persepolis and Esfahan. Esfahan was a very welcome change after the
very hot, arid country of northern Iran. Temperatures hovered above
30 C, especially taxing for us, not used to the scarves, long pants
and manteaus that were mandatory attire at all times.
Esfahan, a prosperous city of 3.5 million, is the cultural capital
of Iran, largely due to the efforts of Shah Abbas I in the 16th
century. Ninety-nine per cent of the population is Muslim, but there
are other religions represented — Zoroastrians, Jews, Christians
and Baha.
With its parks and 11 bridges on the Zayandeh River, Esfahan is very
attractive. We started at the oldest bridge, Shahrestan, dating from
the 12th century but standing on the foundation of a much earlier
time. A short distance away on the riverbank were two men with fishing
rods, enjoying the day. Laughter erupted as my friend and I got caught
up in their lines.
I was surprised to find a tombstone to Arthur Upham Pope, an American
expert in Persian art 1881-1969, on our walk to the second and most
beautiful bridge, Khaju. It is 132 metres long and is on two levels,
the lower containing locks regulating water flow.
Along the way, we met a student sketching in the park and many
locals. Women carry their babies and young children, and strollers
were very few. We never saw a carriage.
Older women usually wear a chador, a head-to-toe black tent-like
covering that must be held closed with the hands, but usually
with their teeth. It was obvious that bags and purses were
underneath. Younger women always wore a hijab, a one-piece head
covering, and a manteau, a thigh-length wrap usually black, but
sometimes grey or blue, over jeans. They often wore brightly coloured
shoes in red, pink and yellow.
Iman Square (or Naghsh-e Jahan Square) is one of the largest in
the world at 512 metres long and 163 metres wide, and has many fine
examples of Islamic architecture — Iman Mosque, Sheikh Lotfollat
Mosque, Ali Qapu Palace and Chehel Sotun Palace.
At either end of the square are marble goalposts, used in polo games
400 years ago. The Bazaar E-Bozorg off the square is filled with
shops selling carpets, hand-printed tablecloths and bedspreads,
hand-painted miniatures on camel bone, inlaid jewelry boxes, gold
and silver jewelry.
The Iman Mosque with its towering minarets, built in the 1600s, is a
must-see. The architecture is stunning, the mosaic tilework, mostly
in blues and yellows, breathtaking. The architect deliberately made
mismatches, so as to say: "only Allah is perfect."
Throughout the mosque, the names of Muhammad and Ali are written
over and over again. The mosque is huge, containing sanctuaries,
courtyards and madrassa, where students were taught until the late 19th
century. The Sheik Lotfollat Mosque displays many beautiful mosaics
and has stairs leading to the entrance; it has neither minaret nor
courtyard and is believed to have been a mosque for the women of the
shah’s harem.
We visited the Armenian quarter known as Jolfa, where 13 Armenian
churches serve a Christian community of about 7,000. The Vank Cathedral
and attached museum are interesting, with decorative paintings
depicting the creation, the expulsion from Eden, the killing of Abel,
the nativity and many other scenes.
The frescoes, portraying scenes from the Old Testament and New
Testament, are truly magnificent. The museum houses the first book
printed in Iran, as well as more than 700 other handwritten books,
with some beautiful depictions.
In every village, town and city in Iran, billboards show pictures
of martyrs — those who lost their lives in the early 1980s in the
Iran-Iraq War. They’re often shown with a rose or a dove. We visited
a huge martyrs cemetery in Esfahan with row upon row of graves of
mostly young men, but also of some older men, women or children. I was
deeply saddened, thinking of those lost and the grief that lingers
as families visit the graves. I was reminded of those young lives
lost in our own country, through the years and still today.
IF YOU GO:
Eldertreks offers a 21-day trip for travellers 50 and over,
in the spring and fall. All meals, accommodations and tour
guides are included. They can be reached at 1-800-741-7956 or
Imaginative Traveller offers tours in Iran and can be reached at
A visa is required. Contact Visa Connection at
or call 403-215-7700 in Calgary. For a visa photo, women need to have
their picture taken with a hijab, a head scarf covering the head and
neck, leaving only the face showing.
Females must wear a head covering when entering Iran, and a loose,
long shirt or coat covering the mid-section, preferably knee- or
thigh-length, over baggy pants. Dark colours are usually worn. Males
usually wear long-sleeved shirts, but short-sleeved is acceptable.
Never take pictures of police, military or any building with a
government interest. This includes gas stations and some banks. This
speaks to the importance of a guide, as buildings are not clearly
marked.
The Abbasi Hotel in Esfahan is recommended; the central garden
courtyard is beautiful, the rooms are plain, $95 US single, $120
US double.
Refer to Foreign Affairs Canada for up-to-date travel advisories.
From: Emil Lazarian | Ararat NewsPress