MIXED TRIP: JERUSALEM STORY OF HOPE, CONFLICT AND MORE
By Jane Wooldridge
San Jose Mercury News
07/02/2009 12:00:00 PM PDT
Jerusalem sings with history, conflict
The Western Wall, with the Dome of the Rock behind it, in Jerusalem,
May 27, 2009. The Dome of…"12345"’Don’t you want to go to
Bethlehem?" the taxi driver asks.
Most restaurants are shuttered on this Jewish holiday of Shavuot,
and taxis are few. But Avi, a Palestinian Christian, shadows the
tourist haunts, hoping for business.
I first catch him on a street, then at the Israel Museum (home to
the Dead Sea Scrolls), then at the door of the palatial King David
Hotel. Always, his question is the same: "Don’t you want to go to
Bethlehem?" It’s only a 30-minute drive, he explains.
Hesitation on my part, and a deep breath. Bethlehem lies behind the
political and sandstone curtain dividing lands Jewish and Palestinian,
on the contentious West Bank.
Finally, a friend and I give in to the magnetism of history, and in
the early morning hours, we ride off with Avi toward "the little town"
memorialized in the beloved Yuletide hymn.
We’re shuttled to a welcoming gift shop, then picked up by a guide and
van who will take us the few blocks to the Church of the Nativity,
built by Queen Helene, mother of the Roman emperor Constantine,
on the spot believed to be Jesus’ birthplace.
We scurry to a chapel beneath the sanctuary, a snug space of painted
walls and hanging oil lamps said to be the site of that humble
manger. White-clad nuns begin to gather, and our guide urges us out
before the private service begins. By the time we reach the stone
floors of the soaring church above, the rich strains of centuries-old
psalms swell through the spare sanctuary.
We feel entirely safe except from the come-ons of hawkers hoping to
lure us to their gift shops.
For Christians, visiting Bethlehem is as essential to a Jerusalem
pilgrimage as following the Stations of the Cross or praying in the
Church of the Holy Sepulchre. For those of other faiths, and those
drawn more by history than religion, this sweet town is inextricably
bound to Jerusalem’s twisting story of hope, conflict, alliances
and resentments.
Close neighbors Nearly all of the more than 3 million tourists who came
to Israel in 2008 included Jerusalem on their must-see lists. More
than in any other place in Israel, past and present coalesce and
meld here. The modern city of 700,000-plus sprawls far beyond the
millennia-old walls, but in its ancient core, history seems forever
at your elbow.
When you read the Bible, Torah or historical texts, you may imagine
great distances between the Temple Mount, where Solomon built the
physical center of Judaism; Gethsemane, where Jesus prayed in the olive
garden; Golgotha, where he hung on a wooden cross; and the stone tomb,
where his body was laid to rest.
But like Bethlehem, these icons incarnate are closer than you
expect. Much closer. Some religious sites stand literally atop each
other; others are no more than steps apart.
As you wander through the old city’s glorious stone warren, you quickly
see that proximity is partly to blame for the ceaseless argument
over Jerusalem’s governance. Like a stone wedged inside your sandal,
some discordant view is ever present. Regardless of your beliefs,
someone who differs vehemently is likely to be just next door.
Even to a first-time visitor, it’s no surprise to find metal detectors
and strict security in the passageways separating Old Jerusalem’s
Arab quarter from the Jewish Western Wall, at the foot of the Temple
Mount. And no surprise to find security again at the entrance leading
up the Mount to the shimmering gold of the Dome on the Rock sacred
to Muslims.
Conflict within What is a surprise, at least to a casual visitor,
is the dissent and violence that have plagued the Church of the Holy
Sepulchre – not between Christians and Jews or Christians and Muslims,
but between Christians and Christians.
These few square feet of stone, you learn, belong to the Greek
Orthodox; these, to the Armenians; these, to the Catholics; these,
to the Coptics. In all, six Christian denominations claim jurisdiction
in various parts of the massive church, which stands over the ground
where Jesus is said to have been crucified, entombed and resurrected.
With six caretakers, squabbling perhaps is inevitable. Over the
years, one group or another has barred the door, hidden the key,
blocked entrances, refused repairs and brawled so openly that police
have been called to restore peace. If you believe in the teachings
of Jesus, or simply have read them, you may be appalled.
And yet, in this ancient city of squabbles, you may also be struck
by a surprising sense of fellowship.
World’s community As they have for generations, Arab and Jewish
merchants sell goods side-by-side in the Old City market – scarves by
lamps by jewelry by dried teas by rugs by Uzbek embroidery sold by an
Arab who says he has converted to Buddhism. Non-Orthodox Jews eat in
Arab falafel stands and stop by the cafe atop the Christian Austrian
Hospice for a Coke. Arabs, Christian priests and yarmulke-clad Jews
pass each other in the snug alleys in what often seems a camaraderie
of familiarity, if not shared purposed.
"You have a sense of worldwide community, regardless of your religion,"
said Paul Hewerdine, an American Catholic who lives in Israel.
Groups of Christian pilgrims drag wooden crosses up the Via Dolorosa,
the path partly through today’s Arab quarter, where Jesus is said to
have carried his own cross to his crucifixion.
A Jewish jeweler points a bewildered traveler to the Crusader-era
Church of St. Anne; an Arab bystander points to the obscured entrance.
Strains of a hymn spill from a Christian church; the Hebrew sounds
of prayer flow from the Western Wall; a muezzin sounds the Muslim
call to prayer.
For all of Jerusalem’s discord, at times the city sings in harmony.
If You Go Dome of the Rock: The striking gold-domed shrine enclosing
the rock where Mohammed is said to have risen to heaven is closed to
non-Muslims, but a stroll around the perimeter of the city’s landmark
gilded dome is a powerful experience. It dates from around 688 and
is one of the world’s oldest Muslim structures.
The Western Wall: The simple stones that form the wall of the Second
Temple are one of Judaism’s most sacred sites, and any time of the day
or night you can see men and women tucking their prayers between the
stones. Men and women pray separately — each has its own entrance
— and although tourist garb is common, women should keep shoulders
covered and dress modestly. There are a few beggars, but paying them
isn’t expected. The Western Wall sits just below the Temple Mount,
home now to the Dome of the Rock, a Muslim site.
Church of the Holy Sepulchre: Jammed among the tight alleys of the
Old City, the church marking the places where Jesus was crucified,
died and buried seems unimpressive from the outside. Inside, it is a
beautiful if sometimes disturbing testament both to conviction and
religious strife: the church (built by Constantine in 326 A.D.) is
divided among six Christian groups, including Greek Orthodox, Coptics,
Armenians, Catholics. The devout queue to get into the chapel over the
tomb where Jesus is said to be buried; the slab where his body was laid
after being taken from the cross is often crowded with the faithful.
Stations of the Cross: The 14 stations of significance on Jesus’ day
of trial and procession to Golgotha are marked with bronze plaques;
they’re small and easily missed. The Via Dolorosa (partly on the
actual street called Via Dolorosa) is as much a path of symbolism
as geography; exact locations of the various sites sometimes are
disputed. On Friday afternoons, Franciscan monks lead a procession
along the way; others are welcome to join.
Bethlehem: Grab your passport — you’ll need it at the West Bank
check point — and snag a taxi or sign up for a half-day tour from
Jerusalem (from about $40). Note that the U.S. Department of State
(//travel.state.gov) advises that travelers be mindful of security
factors when visiting the West Bank.
WHERE TO STAY: The King David Hotel (;
800-745-888) is the city’s showplace. Opened in 1931, it has played
host to such luminaries as Bill Clinton, Gregory Peck, Tony Blair and
Sting. Come at least for a drink and a wander through the hallowed
halls. Doubles from $433; minimum stays required on some dates.
Three Arches YMCA (; 011-972-2-569-2692). Doubles,
$195 including breakfast. This popular option books early.
Austrian Hospice (; 011-972-2-626-5800. This
simple lodging is one of the few within the Old City walls. Even if
you don’t stay here, stop in for a coffee and spectacular rooftop
views. Doubles from about $54, including breakfast.
WHERE TO EAT: No, you aren’t stuck with gefilte fish and falafel
(although the Middle Eastern fare is predictably superb.) International
tastes from sushi to linguine are available. Check out the cafes
around Ben Yehuda Street in the New City Center.
GUIDES AND TOURS: Yael Shilo, my guide in Jerusalem, tailors
tours to the interests of guests, many of them Americans
(yaeltour@netvision.net.il; 011-9725-2-267-2768).
David Perlmutter, my guide elsewhere in Israel, also offers specialized
tours of Jerusalem. An American, he has lived in Israel for several
decades. (david@israeladventure.com; 011-972-54-420-1353).
SECURITY: Be prepared for security lines and X-ray machines in some
buildings and entering the Jewish quarter of the Old City. Armed guards
are common, especially during holiday periods. The U.S. Department
of State advises against travel to the Gaza Strip, which continues
to be plagued by violence.
More Info: Israel Ministry of Tourism, , 888-77-ISRAEL
or 212-499-5660. Also useful is the independent Web site, Sacred
Destinations,