San Francisco Chronicle

Mount Davidson

Gail Todd

Thursday, July 2, 2009

Even in a city known for dazzling peaks and sweeping views, Mount
Davidson, San Francisco’s highest hill, stands out, soaring above San
Francisco at 938 feet. Originally called Blue Mountain, it was renamed
in 1911 to honor scientist, surveyor and Sierra Club charter member
George Davidson. Mount Davidson was designated as a public park in
1929.

The hill’s most notable feature is the huge cross at its summit. There
are many trails to the top, but eucalyptus trees often obscure the
views. However, the trail starting at the upper end of Dalewood Way
near the corner of Myra Way quickly opens up into exciting vistas of
the city and beyond.
What you’ll find
Pick up the trailhead at the east end of steep Dalewood Way, a few
feet away from the 36 Muni bus stop. (Don’t take the larger trail a
little farther west on Dalewood.) Ascending some wooden steps, you
will soon leave the eucalyptus behind and see dazzling views to the
southeast – as far as San Bruno Mountain. As you ascend, you will walk
on a dirt trail at the very edge of the mountain, with views curving
around to Mount Diablo and finally to downtown San Francisco. When you
come upon a small wooden slab of a bench, perch on the mountain’s edge
and enjoy the panorama.
Continue uphill to the cross. (Some parts of the hill are fenced off
for habitat restoration, but you will be able to find a path around
them.)
The cross
Evolving from several simpler wooden crosses into the 103-foot
concrete structure that stands today, the cross is illuminated at
Easter for a sunrise service. It was lit for the first time in 1934 by
President Franklin Delano Roosevelt. (The president pressed a gold
telegraph key at the White House, sending electricity over telegraph
wires to floodlights that illuminated the cross.)
A 1996 court ruling found that the cross on public land violated the
constitutional separation of church and state, so the city sold the
small piece of land at the cross’ base to the Council of
Armenian-American Organizations of Northern California. A heavy bronze
plaque memorializing the victims of the 1915 Armenian genocide was
stolen from the base of the cross in 2007, but it has since been
replaced.
Return via the same scenic route. Or, if you’re feeling adventurous,
explore one of the smaller trails that lead down the
mountain. (Warning to the adventurous: If you keep heading downhill,
you will eventually get out of the park, but you will not necessarily
be anywhere near your bike, car or bus stop.)
West Portal
Stroll over to the nearby West Portal neighborhood, where you can
shop, eat lunch, take in a movie, browse in a bookstore or library, or
hang out at a saloon. This neighborhood, with its old-time village
atmosphere, was created in 1917 when the streetcar line cut through
Twin Peaks, creating the world’s longest streetcar tunnel (more than 2
miles) and access to a new neighborhood.
To get to West Portal Avenue, walk downhill on Dalewood and turn right
at the corner (street sign says Lansdale and then Juanita
Way). Continue to Marne and turn left. You will see the graceful
pedestrian overpass that crosses busy Portola Drive. Cross over,
descend the ramp, and walk a few feet on Kensington to Ulloa. Turn
left on Ulloa and continue to West Portal Avenue.
Getting there
By public transportation, at the Balboa Park BART Station, catch the
36 Muni bus, which will let you off at the corner of Dalewood and Myra
Way, a few feet from the trailhead. You can also bike to the
trailhead.
By car, heading north on 19th Avenue (Highway 1), turn right onto
Sloat Boulevard and then make a slight left to continue on Portola
Drive. Turn right onto Miraloma Drive and then left onto Marne
Avenue. Turn right on Juanita Way and then stay straight to continue
on Lansdale. Turn left onto Dalewood Way and continue until Dalewood
ends. Heading south on Park Presidio Boulevard which leads into 19th
Avenue, turn left onto Sloat Boulevard and continue as above.

Urban Outings are presented by Greenbelt Alliance, the Bay Area’s
advocate for protecting open spaces and creating vibrant places. To
suggest an Urban Outing, contact Gail Todd, tour leader for S.F. City
Guides and author of "Lunchtime Walks in Downtown San Francisco." For
more Urban Outings as well as Greenbelt Outings, visit

Urban Outings are presented by Greenbelt Alliance, the Bay Area’s
advocate for protecting open spaces and creating vibrant urban
places. To suggest an Urban Outing, contact Gail Todd, tour leader for
S.F. City Guides and author of "Lunchtime Walks in Downtown San
Francisco." For more Urban Outings as well as Greenbelt Outings, go to

– Gail Todd, 96Hours@sfchronicle.com
This article appeared on page F – 30 of the San Francisco Chronicle