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Tuesday, November 24, 2009
16:46 Mecca time, 13:46 GMT

THE ROAD TO HAJJ
An Islamic revival in Azerbaijan

At the crossroads of Europe and Central Asia, Islam took root in Azerbaijan
in the seventh century

In a series of programmes, Al Jazeera follows Muslim pilgrims from around
the world as they prepare to undertake the Hajj pilgrimage.

It is an ancient land at the crossroads of Europe and Central Asia and is
said to have been the location of the Garden of Eden.

Different cultures and civilisations have met in Azerbaijan for thousands of
years and the country was one of the first to embrace Islam when Arabian
invaders imposed their religion on the region in the seventh century.

But when Azerbaijan fell under the control of the former Soviet Union in
1920, atheism became state policy; many Muslim leaders were exiled or killed
and mosques were closed down or destroyed.

When the country regained its independence in 1991, many embarked on a
journey to rediscover their faith and heritage and to fill the religious
vacuum left by Communist rule.

Painful journey

Thirty-one-year-old Salamova Samira is a mother of two and part of the 95
per cent of Azerbaijanis who consider themselves Muslims. But, more
significantly, she is one of only five per cent who actually practice their
faith and is about to embark on the Hajj pilgrimage.

"I started praying when I was around 12 years old. There was only grandma
[Samira’s great-grandmother] who prayed in our family. She was 115 years
old. She read the Quran," Samira says.

Salamova Samira thought she would have to save for years to go on Hajj
"When I was a schoolgirl, I also took lessons to learn the Quran. This was
difficult then as many people viewed Islam in a bad light, unlike today."

The older generation, like Samira’s mother, lived their lives without
observing the central tenets of their religion and, more often than not, do
not feel any need to start doing it now.

Samira will travel from Baku, the country’s capital where she lives, to
Mecca in Saudi Arabia for the Hajj. But, for her, the road to Hajj has been
a long one marked by pain and hardship.

"I had been praying until I turned 17. Then I got married and stopped
praying. Having a family with children, I just could not find the time.

"My husband was a Muslim too. He was not against the fact that I prayed
regularly. But I just could not do it. I have two daughters, aged 11 and 13
years old," she explains.

Her relationship with her husband soured and after five years of marriage
they divorced.

"As the saying goes, when the world knocks you down on your knees, you are
in the perfect position to pray," she says.

Performing the pilgrimage seemed like an impossible dream for Samira.

Although she earns a decent living as a house-keeping manager at a hotel,
she knew it would take her years to save enough money to go on Hajj.

"Going to the Hajj was my dream. But with my salary, it was not possible. I
always thought it would take a miracle for me to go," she says.

But fate was to intervene for Samira when a friend of her mother offered to
sponsor her pilgrimage.

Islamic revival

Since the collapse of the Soviet Union, Azerbaijan has witnessed something
of an Islamic revival; hundreds of new mosques have been built, old ones
have been restored and new religious schools have been opened.

For many young Azerbaijanis, like Samira, an interest in Islam is
re-emerging and stronger than ever.

"I can not describe my feelings, the first was fear. At the same time, I
feel happy too," Samira says.

"After the Hajj, you would expect more of yourself. Before the Hajj, you can
make some mistakes, but after the Hajj, you should be more careful in making
your decisions.

"Everyone makes mistakes, commits sin, and lies. After the Hajj, you should
not go back to your old ways. It is easy to go to the Hajj, but after that,
it is as if you are born again, you become clean and innocent."

"And you should keep yourself that way. That is very hard. That is why I am
afraid. But I will go and when I come back, I hope I can manage to do so."

Road to Hajj: Azerbaijan can be seen on Wednesday, November 25, at the
following times GMT: 1030, 1630, 2330.
Source: Al Jazeera