Every cook has a version of this dish

Sheryl Julian April 19, 2010

Tabouli is made all over the Middle East and in other countries surrounding
it. It’s hard to imagine that a dish that combines about six ingredients
could have so many variations. The most well known version is a bulgur salad
tossed with lemon juice, olive oil, fresh tomatoes, and lots of parsley. But
that’s not the only recipe. Other cooks think of tabouli as a parsley salad
with only enough bulgur to hold it together.

Over the weekend, I stopped by Sevan Bakery in Watertown, one of my favorite
Middle Eastern markets, to buy bulgur. First I asked what bag to buy for
tabouli and the answer was: "Number 1." The grain looked very fine indeed.
Then I asked about the correct proportions of water to grain.

"Water?" asked the clerk.

"Yes, how much water do you use to soak the bulgur?"

"None," came the reply. "Use the juice from the tomatoes."

A revelation! At home, I peeled and chopped a large hothouse tomato and
tossed it and all of the juices with the bulgur, scallions, lemon juice,
olive oil, and lots of parsley. My version came out with equal parts bulgur
and parsley, though initially I thought it would have more parsley.
Obviously I’m a novice at this. I let it sit in the refrigerator for half a
day. It’s delicious. The fresh tomato juice permeates the grain. There’s
enough lemon to give it a little bite. Next time I’ll add even more parsley
because I love the bright taste of the fresh herb. Even with so few
ingredients, I think it takes practice.

Tabouli
Serves 4

1 large tomato, peeled and finely chopped
1/3 cup fine bulgur
Juice of 1/2 lemon
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 cups fresh parsley leaves, coarsely chopped

1. In a bowl, combine the tomato, bulgur, lemon juice, olive oil, salt,
pepper, and parsley. Stir well.
2. Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or for up to 2 days.

Sheryl Julian

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Globe Newspaper Company
April 21, 2010