The Atlanta Journal-Constitution
June 14, 2018 Thursday
BREADS;
Ancient bread variety anything but flat
by Meridith Ford; For the AJC, Staff
Since man mastered the use of a mortar and pestle (think back to about
10,000 B.C.) he's been grinding some sort of grain into some sort of
flour. Before yeast (think back to around 2,000 B.C., most likely,
when evidence of beer making and baking were found in ancient Egypt),
he made those flours - wheat, corn, potato, teff, rice - into bread.
The story I used to tell to my baking students at Johnson & Wales
University is that leavening bread with yeast most likely went
something like this: Unleavened dough was left exposed to air for
whatever reason; it absorbed wild yeasts from the air. When the baker
returned to the dough, a miracle had occurred: The dough had risen.
That's probably an accurate anecdote for what happened. But this isn't
a story about yeast; it's a story about flatbreads - the breads before
yeast. "Flatbreads are the oldest breads on earth," said Craig W.
Priebe, chef and author, with Dianne Jacob, of "Grilled Pizzas &
Piadinas" (DK Publishing, 2008). "They evolved from simple flour and
water paste cooked on a hot rock. Middle Eastern pita, Indian roti,
paratha & naan, Armenian lavash and Norwegian lefse are popular Old
World examples."
Venture to any corner of the world, and you'll most likely find a
flatbread. Some are slightly leavened (often with a sour, but yes,
sometimes yeast);many are not.Many are made with wheat flour (pita,
pizza, piadina, pissaladiere, naan, lavash); many are not (arepa,
tortilla, injera, johnnycake, banh, dosa. Try South Indian dosa at
Masti, 2945 North Druid Hills Road, Suite C, Atlanta, 470-236-2784,
where it's wrapped like a cone-shaped hat atop fillings buttered
chicken, onions, potatoes and cilantro).
If necessity is the mother of invention, then flatbreads are certainly
the proof for that pudding (or, ahem dough), and it's the most
probable reason for their proliferation around the world. Follow the
path of whatever grain was milled, and the rest will follow.
"Flatbreads probably predate tall breads," said Peter Reinhart, chef
at Johnson&Wales University, and author of numerous
bread-making books including the James Beard award-winning "The Bread
Baker's Apprentice: 15th Anniversary Edition" (Ten Speed Press, 2016).
"They can be baked on a hot stone even if you don't have an oven."
Indeed. That stone may have as much significance as the flour when it
comes to the evolution of flatbreads.
"Grilling bread is ancient, dating back 6,000 years to Egypt," said
Priebe, adding, "Italian peasants once crushed wheat over a millstone,
mixed the coarse flour with water and salt, and spread the paste on a
stone heated over a wood fire."
"These breads signify an important stage in the unfolding of
civilization, as they represent the transformation of ingredients like
wheat and other flours, into something totally other via the
application of heat (or fire)," said Reinhart. "Dough is changed into
bread, which not only makes it digestible and more nutritious than the
raw grain, but also much more tasty and delicious."
On a recent trip to Italy, I discovered a flatbread in the
Emilia-Romagna region I had never tried before, called piadina - the
focus of Priebe's cookbook. Italy offers scores of flatbreads, but
piadina is by far my favorite, most likely because the dough along the
coast near Ravenna contains cornmeal (an addition arriving from
Italy's first cultivation of maize from the New World around 1638 in
nearby Lovere, according to Priebe's research). The dough is most
often griddled, almost like a pancake.
The result is a supple, scrumptious wrap - like a thinner version of
arepa, found in Colombia and Venezuela (try arepas at Arepa Mia, 10 N.
Clarendon Ave., Avondale Estates, 404-600-3509).
I found them filled with everything from apples, Parma ham and cheese
to eggplant, chicken and arugula.
"Piadina started showing up in Emilia-Romagna around the 2nd Century
B.C. as a simple way to turn a slice of Parmesan cheese or a slice of
Parma ham into more of a meal," explained Priebe. "It's still made
there over wood-burning fires called testos, where people working
outdoors make them for a quick-grilled sandwich. Italians have a
saying:
"Ogni donna fa la piadina a modo suo." It means, "Every woman makes
piadina in her own special way."
It appears every culture does the same. Sink your teeth into any
flatbread, and you'll bite off a mouthful of history.
(Box)
ALSO INSIDE
" More ways to enjoy these timeless classics. , F2
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LAVASH CRACKERS
RON MANVILLE/TEN SPEED PRESS
From Peter Reinhart's "The Bread Baker's Apprentice: 15th Anniversary
Edition" (Ten Speed Press, 2016), here's "a simple formula for making
a snappy Armenian-style cracker flatbread, perfect for breadbaskets,
company, and kids. Lavash, though usually called Armenian flatbread,
also has Iranian roots and is now eaten throughout the Middle East and
around the world. It is similar to the many other Middle Eastern and
North African flatbreads known by different names, such as mankoush or
mannaeesh (Lebanese), barbari (Iranian), khoubiz or khobz (Arabian),
aiysh (Egyptian), kesret and mella (Tunisian), pide or pita (Turkish),
and pideh (Armenian).
"The main difference between these breads is either how thick or thin
the dough is rolled out, or the type of oven in which they are baked
(or on which they are baked, as many of these breads are cooked on
stones or red-hot pans with a convex surface). Some of the breads form
a pocket like a pita bread, and some, like the injera of Ethiopia and
Eritrea, are thicker and serve as sponges to soak up spicy sauces. The
key to crisp lavash, which is one of the most popular of these
flatbread variations, is to roll out the dough paper-thin. The sheet
can be cut into crackers in advance or snapped into shards after
baking. The shards make a nice presentation when arranged in baskets."
Yield: 1 sheet pan of crackers
1½cups unbleached bread flour ½teaspoon salt
½teaspoon instant yeast
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1/3to½cup water, at room
temperature
Poppy seeds, sesame seeds, paprika, cumin seeds, caraway seeds, or
kosher salt for topping In a mixing bowl, stir together the flour,
salt, yeast, honey, oil, and just enough water to bring everything
together into a ball. You may not need the full 1/2 cup water, but be
prepared to use it all if needed.
