This puffed pastry (Gata) is baked with a coin; one lucky person will find it in their gata 

CHENNAI: X mas eve reminds me of a steady stream of people holding candles and wading their way through the snow-filled roads after attending their evening mass at church. People bring Christmas fire from churches to their homes, believing it will bless their families and bring success. As a tradition, the candle is kept burning all through the day,” reminisces Ashkhen Khachatryan. This Armenian national is all set to celebrate Christmas today as per their tradition while the rest of the world indulged in its share of merrymaking ten days ago.

A home away from home

Ashkhen is one of the few Armenians living in the city. Over seven years ago, she decided to make Chennai her home, after marrying the love of her life, Kapil Jesudian. But come Christmas, her heart beats for her friends and family back in her motherland.

As an annual ritual, Ashkhen, Kapil and their son Suren visit The Armenian Church in George Town, on Christmas Eve. “On this day, the church also celebrates the ‘Epiphany’ (which means the revelation that Jesus is God’s son). Epiphany is now mainly the time churches remember the visit of the wise men to meet Jesus; but some churches, like the Armenian Apostolic Church, also celebrate the Baptism of Jesus when he started his ministry on Epiphany day,” details the Anna Nagar resident. 

But given the sparse population of Armenians in the city, Christmas mass is not a routine at the church. “We virtually listen to the main service performed in Armenia. The mass usually begins with bells ringing, incense burning, the Lord’s prayer being said and religious songs being played. Greetings of “Shnorhavor Amanor ev Surb Tsnund’’ (Happy New Year and Merry Christmas) are exchanged,” she notes.

Of stories and sentiments

In the pre-pandemic days, every Christmas after the mass, Ashkhen and family used to host the Armenians of Chennai at their abode to an elaborate spread with heirloom delicacies. She would single-handedly recreate a taste of home with a menu that comprises rice cooked with dry fruits and raisins; fish, salads, greens, tahnabour, a yogurt soup; gata, a puffed pastry; ghapama (traditional Armenian dish made of pumpkin stuffed with pilaf and cooked in the oven); and wine. All of them neatly arranged on a table with a cover bearing traditional motifs, a special vase and fancy cutlery.

While it’s going to be a muted affair this year, Ashkhen fills our stomach and soul with stories from previous years. “The meal is light and does not include meat. These recipes are passed down through generations. Christmas lunch at home is memorable because siblings from different towns of Armenia meet under one roof for a holiday. We play a special game. Gatas used to be baked with  a coin. People say that the one who finds the coin in his piece of gata will be the luckiest during the year. The door is always open for guests and we also visit our family members to exchange gifts,” she shares.

It has been two years since she celebrated Christmas in her hometown. “I went just before the pandemic. The last two years, we’ve been wishing each other through video calls on important occasions. Fortunately, I got some dry fruits like black plums and cherries from home because they are more flavourful and rich in Armenia. Baking soda and some greens are also sourced from there and stocked in our fridge. Food can be a powerful tool in connecting you to your roots,” she says.

Embracing diversity

Married into a family of Protestants, Ashkhen rejoices that she can celebrate Christmas twice — each in its unique way. “Some rituals are similar but I love the differences. My husband’s family visits the church for an early morning mass, comes home to have a hearty breakfast of stew and appam, distributes sweets, snacks and savouries to neighbours and enjoys biryani (either turkey or mutton) for lunch and bursts crackers in the evening. My father-in-law decks up the house with a pretty Christmas tree, fancy lighting and stars. Back home, instead of baubles and trinkets, we would decorate the tree with candies, handmade fabric dolls and fruits like pomegranate, apples and pears. For me, it’s all about embracing both these cultures and I’ve learnt a lot,” she shares.  

Of all the memories, the ritual of her father hiding presents under the pillow has stayed with her since childhood. “As kids, we are told that Dzmer Papik (Winter grandpa, as Santa Claus is called) comes to visit children on December 31, with his granddaughter, Dzyunanushik (Snow Sweetie). Santa visits us on New Year’s Eve and not on Christmas. This fairytale will stay with me forever,” says Ashkhen. 

Over the years, despite the dwindling count of the Armenian community that keeps migrating in and out of the city, families like Ashkhen’s are trying to uphold the legacy of their traditions. “We don’t miss any opportunity to get together with fellow members at the church. We usually gather on memorial days, Christmas Eve and Armenian Genocide Day. I also visit my friends whenever time permits. My son, the next generation, observes the customs we follow and actively takes part in all celebrations. He’s interested in learning about our culture. That’s promising for now,” says a hopeful Ashkhen.
Here’s looking forward to seeing more Armenians in the city bringing in their share of diversity and history for posterity.