Armenian food fest a tasteful treat
Published in the Asbury Park Press 11/21/04
By KAREN SUDOL, STAFF WRITER
LONG BRANCH — Armenian food holds a special place in Janice Werner’s
heart.
Having grown up eating the dishes prepared by her Armenian mother,
the Neptune resident said she has learned to make some of them,
including baklava.
But every year she comes to a place that offers her a wide variety of
popular Armenian delicacies to sample: St. Stepanos Armenian Church’s
food festival.
“Every culture has its own foods,” she said. “I love my foods.”
Yesterday, the Women’s Guild sponsored the 16th annual food festival
in the Sirvart and Kevork Hovnanian hall of the church on Ocean Avenue
in Elberon.
The festival, which includes hot foods, baked goods, take out items
and a white elephant sale, continues today.
Visitors have a choice of four main dishes and/or numerous sides
at varying prices. The popular choice — as they always seems to
be — are the lamb shanks, braised shank marinated in savory herbs,
vegetables and wine.
But the cheese boereg (light and flaky cheese-filled pastry), hummus
(pureed chick-peas with tahini) and yalanchi sarma (grape leaves
stuffed with rice, pine nuts and herbs) were also big sellers.
The church also offers desserts including pakhlava (flaky dough layered
with light syrup) prepared by church member Krikor Toufayan, formerly
of Toufayan Bakeries, a leader in the pita bread industry. Toufayan
is retired but makes the pastries in the church’s kitchen specifically
for the event.
Each year, the festival event draws about 600 people over the two days,
said event co-chairwoman Arpie Nakashian, of Jackson. It is the biggest
fund-raiser of the year for the church, raising about 10 percent of the
church’s revenue, said event chairwoman Sossie Najarian, of Middletown.
“It’s not done strictly for the Armenian community,” said Najarian. “We
incorporate the whole area,” adding that visitors from throughout
the Tri-State Area attend.
“They learn about our culture and enjoy a pleasant time with our good
food,” she added.
Preparation begins in September and the event requires about 60
volunteers, with five cooks in the kitchen at any given time during
the two days, said Nakashian. The dishes are labor-intensive.
Many people nowadays don’t have the time to experiment with cooking
the recipes, which can be involved and time-consuming, said Araxy
Gokberk, who chairs the Women’s Guild.
“This is a treat,” said Gokberk, of Asbury Park. “People love to come
and taste the different foods.”
At mid-afternoon yesterday, David Aynejian, of Hazlet, was seated
enjoying a sample of the dishes. Having heard about the event from
an e-mail he received, he came because he wanted good Armenian food,
he said.
“In this part of the state, there aren’t that many Armenian
restaurants. There’s only one I know of,” he said.
Takeout is also available, including ingredients like red lentils to
make some of the dishes.