Historic Armenia Perks Up After Soviet Era
The Washington Times, Travel Section
Saturday, April 8, 2006
Randy Mink, Copley News Service
Yerevan, Armenia
Armenia sits poised on the brink of discovery. Blessed with historical
attractions and rugged splendor but closed to tourism for many years, this
ancient land is seeing an increasing number of well-traveled Americans.
Encouraged by improved standards of comfort, visitors are satisfying their
thirst for intrigue in this small Christian country tucked in the Caucasus
Mountains of southwestern Asia.
Armenia was the smallest of the former Soviet Union’s 15 republics. Since
gaining independence in 1991, it has been transitioning to a market-based
economy, with tourism is a key component.
“This cradle of civilization wants to rock,” said Nina Hovnanian, director
of the fledgling Armenian Tourism Development Agency.
As a travel destination, Armenia – one of the world’s oldest Christian
nations – is best known for its mountains and monasteries, but Yerevan, the
capital city, abounds with urban diversions and hums with a youth-driven
cafe and disco scene.
Images of pop star Cher, who is of Armenian ancestry, come to mind as you
watch the sidewalk parade of long-haired girls in tight jeans, spangly tops
and high heels, many of them talking on cell phones. (The singer’s family
name, Sarkisian, is typical of Armenian surnames, most of which end in
“ian.”)
One-third of Armenia’s 3 million people live in Yerevan, a logical base of
operations for visiting the major sights. After a day trip to the
countryside, it’s heartening to know an air-conditioned room awaits your
return. Most Americans choose the new Armenia Marriott Hotel. An oasis of
luxury, the country’s first internationally branded hotel overlooks Republic
Square, a grand oval in the heart of town.
On clear days, the snow-shrouded peak of Mount Ararat dominates Yerevan’s
skyline. Although it lies across the border in eastern Turkey, the mountain
is a symbol of historic Armenia, which once covered a large territory that
extended to the Black Sea. Biblical tradition says Noah’s ark rested on its
summit after the great Flood.
Through the centuries, Romans, Persians, Turks and Russians invaded and
carved up Armenia, a strategic crossroads on the land bridge connecting
Europe and Asia. Today the landlocked country is about the size of Maryland.
Armenia is also bordered by Iran and the former Soviet republics of Georgia
and Azerbaijan, but geopolitical tensions keep the Turkish and Azerbaijani
borders closed, hurting the Armenian economy. Though Armenia is politically
stable and safe to visit, one U.S. diplomat in Yerevan admits “it’s a rough
neighborhood.”
American tourists find that Armenia blends Soviet-era drabness with Middle
Eastern exotica. The Armenian alphabet throws outsiders for a loop and adds
to the otherworldly flavor.
The country is not culturally diverse because 96 percent of the people are
ethnic Armenians. Curiously, the majority of Armenians – about 4 million –
live outside their homeland. In the United States, the largest
concentrations are in metropolitan New York and Boston, and California,
especially Glendale and Fresno.
The Armenian Apostolic Church is so intertwined with Armenian life that
religion and culture are practically synonymous.
Established there some 1,700 years ago, Christianity has survived and is
being embraced by all age groups after decades of Soviet-era atheism. Gilded
icons, priests’ elaborate vestments and other Eastern flourishes invite
comparisons to the Russian and Greek Orthodox churches.
A short drive west of Yerevan is the Echmiadzin complex, the `Vatican’ of
the Armenian Church. There in a palace at the country’s holiest religious
site resides Karekin II, the catholicos, or patriarch of the worldwide
church.
Walking through the gardenlike campus, visitors see black-robed monks and
ancient khatchkars, the intricately carved stone crosses found throughout
Armenia. Burning incense permeates the main cathedral, on the site where St.
Gregory the Illuminator built the first church.
Another shrine is Khor Virap Monastery, south of Yerevan, where St. Gregory
was imprisoned in a dark pit for 13 years for preaching the Gospel. When he
miraculously cured King Tiridates III of a disease in 301, the king set him
free and converted to the faith, or so the legend goes, forever
distinguishing Armenia as the first Christian nation. Agile visitors can
climb a ladder into the dungeon where Gregory languished.
On a trip to this border area near Mount Ararat, you’ll spy guard towers at
American military bases in Turkey.
East of Yerevan, make a pilgrimage to Geghard Monastery, hewn into a
mountainside. You may witness worshippers lighting candles in cavelike
chapels dating to 1215.
By a stream, the devout tie scraps of cloth onto tree branches, an act of
faith that is said to make a wish come true and assure a return to Geghard.
In the parking lot, folk musicians and village women wearing kerchiefs hawk
round loaves of bread and jars of honey, jam and fruit, offering more
subject matter for photographers.
>From the bus window, keep your eyes peeled for boys herding sheep or donkeys
burdened with saddle baskets full of tomatoes.
Roadside stands offer everything from cucumbers and eggplants to walnuts and
sunflower seeds.
Apple, peach and plum orchards dot the rocky terrain. You’ll also see many
pomegranates. Famous for its brandy and table wines, Armenia counts grapes
as another important crop.
A longer day trip from Yerevan is the northward excursion to Lake Sevan. One
of the largest alpine lakes in the world, it occupies about 5 percent of
Armenia’s landmass. Hotels and camping resorts cater to Yerevan residents;
foreigners come for the two lakeside monasteries, both with the trademark
conical domes that crown other churches.
To truly understand the Armenian nation, it’s essential to visit the
Genocide Memorial, the No. 1 site in Yerevan.
An underground museum tells of the ethnic Armenians who suffered in Anatolia
(eastern Turkey) before, during and after World War I. Visitors pay their
respects by placing flowers around an eternal flame.
On Republic Square, formerly Lenin Square, the State Museum of Armenian
History overlooks fountains in a huge reflecting pool, and the National Art
Gallery has an impressive collection of European masters.
Both museums face the Armenia Marriott, where tables under Coca-Cola
umbrellas provide ringside seats for people-watching. Clad with the pinkish
volcanic stone common in Yerevan buildings, the 225-room hostelry opened in
2004 after a $42 million refurbishment that transformed the Hotel Armenia, a
1950s dinosaur that offered Soviet-style service.
Abovian Street, off Republic Square, has small souvenir shops. Popular items
include brandy, carpets, woodcarvings, embroidery and costumed dolls.
Ceramic pomegranates also make good mementoes.
For a night on the town, try the Old Yerevan Restaurant, a rustic place that
dishes up folk entertainment and classic Armenian cuisine. Feast on
khorovats (marinated pork or lamb barbecued on a skewer) or tolma (spiced
meat in cabbage or grape leaves). There will be greens, tomatoes, rice and
cheeses, along with yogurt to roll into thin sheets of pitalike bread called
lavash.
IF YOU GO
The following will be helpful in planning a trip to Armenia:
Lufthansa, British Airways and Austrian Airlines flights from the U.S. to
Yerevan involve a change of planes in Europe and cost an average of $1,400
round trip.
Armenia travel specialists with offices in Glendale, Calif., include Tatians
Travel, (818) 550-8790, ; Levon Travel, (818) 552-7700,
; and Sidon Travel, (818) 553-0777,
A top guidebook is `The Stone Garden Guide: Armenia and Karabagh’ sold in
select U.S. bookstores and through Amazon.com.
Tourist information: The Armenian Tourism Development Agency’s Web site is
Randy Mink is a freelance travel writer.
Visit Copley News Service at
Copyright 2006 Copley News Service
GRAPHIC:
– Armenia, the world’s oldest Christian nation, is best known for its
mountains and monasteries, but Yerevan abounds with urban diversions and
hums with a youth-driven cafe and disco scene.
– The main cathedral at Echmiadzin, a complex sometimes referred to as the
Vatican of the Armenian Apostolic Church. It stands on the site where St.
Gregory the Illuminator built the country s first Christian church 1,700
years ago.
– The Genocide Memorial in Yerevan commemorates the suffering Armenians
endured from the Ottoman Empire in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
– A pizza restaurant s sidewalk tables reflect the lively street life of
Yerevan, Armenia, a logical base of operations for travelers visiting the
small country.