THE ARMENIAN CHURCH OF THE HOLY CROSS ON LAKE VAN REOPENED BUT ONLY AS A MUSEUM
by Mavi Zambak
AsiaNews.it, Italy
March 28 2007
Built in the X century it lies in one of the country’s most
beautiful areas, the very site of the Armenian genocide occurred. The
journalist Hrant Dink, killed a months ago, had asked for the churches
restoration and reopening. For years the ancient frescos had been
used for target practice; the sacred building blackened by barbecue
smoke for picnics. Armenian religious authorities protest.
Patriarch Mesrob II refuses to participate in the ceremony.
Ankara (AsiaNews) – Tomorrow March 29 the Turkish government will
reopen – as a museum – the ancient Armenian Church of the Holy Cross
on Akdamar island in the middle of lake Van, on eastern Turkey’s
border with Armenia. The date had been moved over 4 times.
Tomorrow Turkish authorities will be present at the ceremony, including
prime minister Erdogan, but the Armenian spiritual authorities will
not be present. In fact the Ankara authorities have denied the use
of the building as a Church and has also refused to place a cross at
the summit of the dome, as the original Church once had.
Frescos destroyed and blackened
Lying in a splendid salt water volcanic lake, this suggestive church is
reached by a short 15 minute baost trip. It is one of the most precious
examples of Armenian tenth century art in existence, an architectural
creation of rare beauty (view the photo album at following address:
).
In the past the Turkish journal Milliyet, had denounced the alarming
story that the bas relief which decorate the facade of the Holy Cross
and depict scenes from the New and Old testament, were being used as
target practice. In order to prove the damage caused they published
photos illustrating the extent of the bullets destruction. Moreover,
on hearing of a hidden treasure present on the island, local residents
became "hunters" in search of the presumed riches, committing untold
acts of vandalism in the process.
As if that was not enough, the island, a popular destination for
holiday picnic makers, was literally invaded by barbeques some even
installed within the church itself, with the tragic consequence that
the frescos on the church interior were blackened beyond recognition.
In 2004 the newspaper Zaman also raised the alarm about the degraded
state of Holy Cross Church, despite the fact that it is a tourist
location of renowned popularity among visitors from all over the world,
above all the Armenian Diaspora. In fact it is widely known that
this area – among the most beautiful landscapes in Turkey – is sadly
infamous for having been one of the sites of the Armenian genocide of
1915. Today for many Armenians, wherever they may be, Akdamar remains
a place dear to their hearts, so much so that many try to visit it
before they die. The sight of elderly Armenians falling to their knees
in prayer as they set foot on the sacred island is not a rare one.
A year and a half ago, the Turkish authorities decided to restore
this artistic patrimony, a plan to preserve the historic identity
of the church was laid out and after 15 months of intense work the
restoration- which cost over 2 million euros and was carried out by
the Turkish architect of note Zakerya Mildanoglu -has finished.
But not without controversy.
Il restauro e il genocidio armeno
Armenian Turkish journalist Hrant Dink – killed in Istanbul on
January 19th – wrote an article for the Turkish paper Birgun which was
republished by Milliyet the very day of his assassination: "Ten years
ago I first appealed to the Van authorities. "Instead of inventing
a monster in the lake to attract tourists why don’t you take care of
the work of art which lies right under your nose. What need is there
to waste your time on stupidities? Van is a veritable treasure from
an Artistic point of view. Why do you not act seriously and sit down
to ask yourselves: What if we restore the region? – And even if then
Armenians did arrive, let them come to visit the birth place of their
forefathers, what harm could they possibly do? " And I even added:
"If you need help we are ready. Turkey’s Armenians and those of the
Diaspora are ready to volunteer their services, we are at your orders,
let this be known! Come let us restore not only the Church but also
our disenchanted souls". Finally after a long wait restoration on
Akdamar are completed (…) we are deeply indebted to Cahit Zeydanli
for his meticulous work, he consulted experts from Armenia and also
with architect Zakarya Mildanoglu, and Armenian from Turkey. They did
their best and they have created something splendid. The did great
things, but alas then politicians and bureaucrats became involved and
the inauguration could not take place. Once the opening was put of
from November 4th 2006 for reasons of inclement weather to April the
24th, as explained by Culture Minister Atilla Koc. Reactions were not
short in coming. The Armenian Patriarch Mutafyan made known that in
the case the inauguration actually happened on April 24th no Armenian
should attend. Last week the question even arose in Parliament. CHP
(Peoples Republican Party) deputy Erdal Karademir asked if the date of
April 24th, the anniversary of the Armenian genocide, was a reflection
of the politics of AKP (Justice and Development Party).
For its’ part the nationalist press presented the event as "the
inauguration of the Van vendetta". They succeeded in transforming
something positive into an error, a farce, a disaster. The government
still has not taken up a clear position regarding the Armenian
question. It is not concerned with resolving the issue, but in scoring
points in a political battle, in basis of their opponents moves. They
lack all credibility. The invite Armenian historians to the discussion
table but then show no scruples in putting people on trial who have a
different view point to the official line on the question. The restore
the Armenian Church to attract tourists to the western Anatolia region,
at the same time showing no sahme in scoring political points from it".
After hypothesising over April 11th, now it has been decioded: tomorrow
there will be the opening ceremony with the presence of prime minister
Recep Tayyip Erdogan, Minister for Culture and Tourism Attila Koc,
the Minister for Armenian Culture Hasmik Poghosyan has also been
invited. But the problems persist.
It is well known that the Border between Turkey and Armenia is closed,
thus after various attempts to have a conduit opened, or a special
airfield made available for the special occasion, so the Armenian
authorities could make their way to Van directly from the Armenian
capital, following Turkey’s repeated no, the group of Architects,
historians and journalists today set out on an arduous 15 hour
journey overland through Georgia, when Van lies a few hundred miles
from Erivan.
A museum without a cross or religious ceremonies
The Armenian Patriarch Karekin Katolikos II has joined Turkish Armenian
Patriarch Mesrob II in refusing to attend. Why? This historic Church
has been transformed into a museum, a request for a cross to be
put in place at the summit of the dome has been refused, there will
be no bells and the opening ceremony will be equal to that of any
secular museum.
"Seeing as it is not considered a Church, seeing as no religious
celebration will mark this reopening, my presence there is really
insignificant", affirmed Patriarch Mesrob II, adding: "I pleaded with
the President and Prime Minister to see that a cross be placed on
the dome, I invited them to establish an annual Armenian festival in
the area, but I have yet to receive an answer. Therefore my presence
there on March 29th really has little sense".
And the delicate relationship between the Patriarch and the Turkish
authorities do not end here.
Days ago Mesrob II travelled under heavy police escort following death
threats to Iskenderun, in ancient Alessandretta, a maritime city on
Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, to celebrate the 225 anniversary of
the local Armenian Church. Well, there in that very city which is
also home to the Catholic Vicariate to Anatolia, the mayor decided to
erect a monument to the Turks killed by French and Armenians during
the French occupation of 1918-38.
The Patriarch, could only comment on this gesture as a further
provocation by nationalists to divide the population : "Instead
of building a bridge of dialogue between peoples, in this way they
heighten tensions, this can only be the work of nationalists", he
sadly commented to journalists.
Even regarding Hrant Dink’s assassination, nothing clear has so far
emerged: "If we still cannot find the true perpetrators of this
crime, it means that they are well protected and from on high",
is the Patriarchs embittered response.