Author: Nyrie Kalashian

Words: Miles Holder

Last week, I had the incredible honour of travelling to Armenia to attend the inaugural Yerevan Fashion Week. Not only was I fortunate enough to witness this momentous event, but I also had the privilege of serving as a jury member for the prestigious Fashion Scout Armenia Award.

Fashion Scout Armenia is an exceptional opportunity that aims to illuminate the extraordinary talent of emerging Armenian fashion designers on a global stage. In collaboration with the esteemed Fashion and Design Chamber of Armenia (FDC Armenia), our task was to evaluate the collections of Armenian fashion students, recent graduates, and emerging designers, determining which among them were ready to take the next step in their careers. Let me tell you, this was no easy feat given the remarkably high level of talent on display.

The stakes were high, as the prizes for Fashion Scout Armenia ranged from a three-month internship at a renowned fashion atelier in Florence, a sponsored study trip to London Fashion Week in September 2023, exclusive one-on-one mentoring sessions with Fashion Scout experts, and the opportunity to be featured on Fashion Scout and FDC Armenia’s esteemed media channels. With such incredible rewards at stake, it became apparent from the outset that each designer brought their own unique flair and showcased remarkable potential which might one day gain them a coveted spot on the Yerevan Fashion Week schedule.

Now, let’s delve into a captivating rundown of the Fashion Scout Armenia collections we were fortunate enough to witness, along with my personal thoughts and, of course, the much-anticipated announcement of the winners.

MM2NINE’s “Lost Memory” collection drew inspiration from Armenia’s magnificent architectural legacy and the country’s traditional costume, the Taraz. This captivating collection transcended time, weaving a narrative that celebrated ancestral heritage while showcasing the prowess of modern craftsmanship. The inclusion of horned headpieces paid homage to the iconic Afrikyan’s Club Building, which once graced the heart of Yerevan. Through these striking elements, MM2NINE provocatively explored the intertwined nature of shared histories and the often-controversial removal of historic relics to pave the way for a dynamic and ever-evolving culture.

While rooted in history, the collection seamlessly integrated modern corsetry, innovative material choices, and the vision of a young and talented designer. These elements elevated “Lost Memory” to a contemporary stage, creating a captivating fusion of past and present that left a lasting impression.

Gayane Ghazaryan’s collection was a testament to the fusion of Armenian architecture and avant-garde fashion. Inspired by the captivating colours and architectural elements of traditional stone buildings, Ghazaryan skilfully incorporated these influences into her colour scheme, creating a visually striking collection. However, it was her ability to draw inspiration from more contemporary surroundings that truly set her apart. One of her designs paid homage to the Karen Demirtchian Sport/Concert Complex, infusing a modern edge into the collection.

One notable aspect of Ghazaryan’s collection was the use of sheer sleeves and trousers, which added a touch of ethereal elegance and further contributed to its contemporary vibe. While Ghazaryan’s talent and creativity suggest a potential future in haute couture, the underlying evidence of strong ready-to-wear contemporary design skills was unmistakable. The combination of innovative construction, attention to detail, and a modern aesthetic make Ghazaryan a designer to watch in the world of fashion.

Knarik Karapetyan unveiled one of the more contemporary collections which captivated the audience as her models confidently strode down the runway. It was evident that Karapetyan had a clear vision of her target audience, showcasing immense potential to attract a devoted customer base. Her brand, aptly named Boldness, truly lived up to its name, with a vibrant colour palette and striking silhouettes that commanded attention.

What set Karapetyan’s collection apart was its high level of customizability. The clothing pieces were designed to be adaptable, allowing individuals to personalize their looks. Additionally, the ingenious incorporation of handbags that seamlessly integrated with the garments added a touch of ingenuity and practicality to the collection.

We eagerly anticipate what Karapetyan has in store for the future, as her talent and ability to push boundaries are undeniable.

Lucciana Karabajakian, the founder of the brand Lily and Orchid, has already achieved significant success in the real world, and her expertise is evident in her latest collection. Through the utilisation of various techniques, her collection showcases versatility, sustainability, and above all, relevance. Additionally, her incorporation of felt-work adds a notable artistic touch to the collection, while her distinctive skirt woven belts demonstrate her keen eye for styling and attention to detail.

I would say that her designs show potential in the real world, had I not scrolled down Lily and Orchid’s Instagram to find already sold-out designs! Either way, we are eagerly anticipating her future endeavours as a designer, and look forward to witnessing her continuous growth in the industry.

Alla Dawson has seamlessly incorporated captivating storytelling into her avant-garde collection under her brand, Admery. The brand’s Instagram showcased a previously handmade dress, highlighting her evident design expertise.

Her collection, titled “Dove from Sevan,” draws inspiration from the mystical history of the Hayravank monastery. The collection narrates the tale of Abbot Hovhan, who transformed thousands of Armenians into doves, allowing them to soar towards freedom. By employing a variety of techniques and materials, this avant-garde collection presents a mesmerising spectacle, demonstrating a range of versatile skills applicable to a myriad of applications within the fashion industry.

Anahit Khalatyan’s brand Tihana serves as a valuable example from which larger brands can draw inspiration. By utilizing solely recycled denim, which she sources from her friends, Tihana has successfully crafted a collection that truly aligns with the elusive sustainable objective that so few brands genuinely fulfil. Demonstrating a diverse range of styles and employing various techniques, the collection features an array of garments, including jackets, trousers, and even a headpiece.

Anahit Khalatyan establishes that sustainable fashion need not be monotonous; most importantly, she showcases that with skill, sustainability can harmoniously exist in the world of high fashion an exciting prospect for a world desperately in need of bold thinkers.

Nana Metajanyan, the visionary behind the esteemed brand Alenkie, showcased her exceptional talent in her upcycled collection. Employing a diverse range of techniques, Metajanyan breathed new life into old creations. One particular standout piece that captured everyone’s attention was the striking two-tone trench coat. Through the clever use of illustration and patchwork, the collection exuded a playful yet rebellious edge, making it a perfect fit for fashion-forward individuals who exude confidence.

Sustainability was at the core of Metajanyan’s collection. To add a touch of ingenuity, models adorned headdresses constructed from pull tabs sourced from tinned drinks, further emphasizing the brand’s commitment to eco-consciousness. This creative move added a unique and unexpected element to the runway presentation.
Alenkie has already established a strong vision and a distinct aesthetic. With each collection, the brand can continue to evolve and captivate and it will be an exciting journey to witness as Alenkie grows and cements its place in the fashion industry.

Mari Airapetyan, the talented designer behind Mariko Design, emerged as the grand prize winner with her exceptional collection that seamlessly melded elements from the past and tradition with a contemporary twist. The boldness of her collection was evident in the expertly crafted shorts, jackets, dresses, accessories, and printed shirts that graced the runway. It was evident that Mari had invested considerable effort and research in conceptualising this remarkable range.
From the thoughtfully chosen colour palette to the carefully selected materials, every aspect of the collection paid homage to the rich fashion history of Armenia while incorporating elements of contemporary design language, striking a harmonious balance between the two. It is often said that the true essence lies in the details, and Mari’s collection exhibited an impressive range of techniques and meticulous craftsmanship.

The inaugural Fashion Scout – Yerevan Fashion Week showcased an exciting array of budding designers all of who displayed a level of talent far beyond their years. We eagerly await what lies ahead for all designers and feel assured that in their hands, Armenia’s future within the fashion world could very well be FAULTless.

July 8 2023

She described challenges and rewards of making wines in Armenia, and how the domestic vintners’ scene has dramatically altered during the past decade.

‘My father purchased 180 hectares [440 acres] of rocks in 2007. We built a 17-kilometer brick wall around it. We call it the Great Wall of ArmAs. It’s undulating terrain.

‘When I was 18 I lived in Florence in Italy for a few months studying art history. I picked up Italian. That came in handy when we had 35 Italians living at ArmAs full for years during construction. As a child I won gold medals in a science fair in applied engineering and physics. My father was a structural engineer. I wanted to follow in his footsteps. When we built the winery, I understood much of the engineering.

‘ArmAs is short for my great grandfather Armenak Aslanian who was the winemaker in our family. Village winemaker. ‘Keerk’ in Armenian means passion. We say ArmAs is our name, and Keerk is our approach.

‘Our family revitalized the wine education industry and wine service industry in Armenia. Before, if something broke down, we had to call someone from Europe to come, and then pay them an exuberant amount of money to fix it. No longer. We were the first to do wine tourism on this scale. Most importantly, there used to be no market to speak of in terms of fine wines. Now, it’s almost embarrassing if you are caught drinking a non-Armenian wine in Armenia.

‘We started from scratch. From grape to glass, literally. We say man versus nature—phase one. Man versus man, with the winery and team—phase two. Then man versus the market. All three are ongoing.

‘Man versus nature: in 2011 we were expecting our very first harvest, 800 tons of grapes. We were going to sell them and reinvest in the winery which was still under construction. In five minutes we lost it all. Massive hailstorm. Nothing of the like had been in Armenia in at least 40 years; we know that because we studied the past 40 years of meteorological reports—wind rain, snow. But, we say—looking at the wine glass half full—then okay, if it had to happen, and I guess it had to happen, it was better in 2011 and not in 2012 when we were expecting our estate grown grapes for our estate bottled wines.

‘Now when it’s going to hail we know. By experience. We can even smell it, and of course we listen to meteorological reports. When we see it, basically we shoot this propane pill from any of three guns located on the estate into the clouds. As soon as it hits, a reaction takes place that disperses the cloud.

‘We have 100 hectares of scattered planted vineyards and also have 40 hectares of scattered orchards throughout the estate—so that flavors and aromas impact the soils and vines and grapes.

‘Some people invested in this country blindly; others were smart. Some got land from the government. We did not. What we have done so far is individual. It’s commendable. But imagine how far we could go. I used to take the politics of everything very hard. But my father said—and I took it very seriously—‘Listen, take it easy. Some people will come and go. We will stay. Keep your head down. Keep your head up. Work. That’s it. That’s what we do.

‘I was born in what was the Soviet Union—in Yerevan, Armenia. I left right as it was collapsing, then visited very often, practically every summer. Saw the transition. Saw it during the dark years, as we call them. Because at one point there was no water, no lights. Saw it through complete and utter corruption and more corruption and revolution.

‘Now, the city of Yerevan excites me. Gives me hope for the future. Yerevan is fun and wonderful. So many nice new places. When people visit, they feel like they’ve made a discovery. It’s not what they were expecting. The Yerevan Wine Days festival has a huge, huge turnout. People love it. When we started in 2007 there were three, maybe four wine producers. Now we’re getting closer to 200.

‘It never ceases to amaze me that despite everything and anything, we still have progress. We still go forward, and things get better. They get cleaner, more peaceful, more beautiful, more elegant, with better services, nicer places, industries flourish and what excites me most—the change in mindset. Like some wines—the finish is lasting and persistent, much like the culture itself.

‘Last summer I moved back to Armenia. There is nowhere else I’d rather live. I love it. It’s home. They say that in love there is a sense of ownership. I make a comparison to native grape varieties—those that are indigenous. Our native grape varieties thrive in their native soils. I can say the same of my soul. It thrives in my native soil.

‘Autumn—my favorite time of year. First of all, it’s not too hot. Secondly, the leaves change so you have these gorgeous blankets of greens and oranges and reds and yellows. So beautiful. On any day when Mount Ararat is shining through, somehow it lifts my spirit. It’s innate.’

The country of Armenia is 29,700+ square kilometers in area, or about 11,500 square miles in area—about the same size as the U.S. state of South Carolina, or of the country of Belgium; its annual wine production of some 13 million liters (3.4 million gallons) is somewhat larger than that of the U.S. state of Michigan or approximately the same as that of Luxembourg, but less than Slovakia.

‘Considering we are such a small country, if we just export our raw materials, it’s never going to make a difference. So to make wine from grapes, or top of the line cosmetic products—this is the way to take it to the next level. I was invited here to Paris to speak about that. It’s a big deal. The Armenian General Benevolent Union is the biggest and wealthiest benefactor for different Armenian causes. They are involved in a lot and have been around quite some time.

‘The country is getting more and more diverse, especially now. We now have so many Russians and Ukrainians. Which is very good. Although prices of everything have gone up, quality and demand also are going up. New wines, new markets, new events. Tourism—previously most of our tourists to ArmAs were from the United States. Now, most are Russians.

[In 2020 there was a 44-day serious armed conflict that involved Armenia, Azerbaijan and the disputed terrain of Artsakh.]

‘After 44 days of war in 2020, the country was literally in mourning. Months and months of that. People couldn’t take it anymore. They needed to go outside and live. There was this palpable shift in mentality. Streets are vibrant once more after heartache, disappointment, tragedy. But you don’t honor that by stopping living. You honor it by saying—We will be happy; we will progress; we will build; we will smile. That’s what we did. And that is no small feat.

‘You know what? Take it easy. Enjoy what you can. Greatest pleasures in life? Relations we have with people; the joy we take from them, and give to them. Then the basic senses. What I love about wine, and also about great company, is both tend to do the same. They awaken a sixth sense. With wine we feel it, we see it, we smell it, we taste it and we hear it [clinking wine glasses] and when we enjoy it—a sixth sense arises as well. In great company it’s also true—from the energy that arises.

‘What to say of a nation where the only thing we have to share with the world is our culture—our destiny and fortune? We’re changing that, with exports of wine. It will take a while. But Armenia? The per capita awesomeness is off the charts.’

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